F134 - Manifold Stud Sheered Below Flush

Of course it's the rear one, not any of the three center ones. I've tried welding it a few times and it kept ripping and now decently below flush with the block. Any of you guys have success stories with drill types (electric vs air) and bits? My drills are more wood working/construction stuff and decently domesticated. If I'm going to get a set of bits for drilling out a 60 year old stuck bolt, I'm very open to hearing what types have worked on these studs.

 

Ordinary HSS metal cutting bits will work. Low speed, lots of pressure. Start with a small pilot hole.

 

I've drilled out a number of them over the years using a basic electric drill and what I do these days is use a very small pilot drill as Pete mentions and am very careful to center it. I then use successively larger bits until all that remains of the old bolt is just the threads and I have stopped just shy of drilling into the threads on the block. What remains comes out with very little pressure from the easy out. Some I have actually spun out using a pick when I have done it that way.

 

I have a set of left handed drill bits. Like Pete and Karl said the most important thing is to make sure you center punch it dead center, and start with a small drill bit. A lot of times a left handed drill bit will grab the broken bolt and spin it out for you. I got my left hand set of drills from a friend, but am sure if you look around you can find them. Good Luck.

 

Use a torch to heat it up too. Mapp gas is better than nothing. Maybe try that candle trick too. The LH drill bits are worth it to try. My experience is similar to Ricks.

 

Actually, a combination of all the above. Carefully centerpunch and drill a pilot hole as close to dead-center as possible. Progressively enlarge up to about 3/16", then heat with a torch or Mapp gas. Dab a paraffin candle (most birthday candles) while hot. Try the next size left-hand drill. Hopefully, it will bite and back the offending bolt out. Otherwise, keep stepping up the drill size and heating. When the bolt gets thin enough, you may be able to pick out the remains.
Good Luck! -Donny

 

Thanks guys! I'll give these a whirl.

Up until this point, the motor swap had gone a little too smooth. Nothing can be easy..

 

Different concept- my rear stud was also broken off flush. I cut the ear down on the manifold enough to get a full nut's worth of thread. I couldn't get a drill in straight enough with the body still on.

 

My engine has the same stud broke off flush too. I haven't tried to mess with it, but will when the time comes for engine rebuild. I also have a set of LH bits, Harbor Freight I think. I was also planning on applying heat, but was thinking about dousing it good with Kroil first too. Anybody tried Kroil on one?

 

When I had mine I just moved the body back to drill it out. You will have to drain coolant. Good luck

 

My whole garage smells like Kroil, I used so much lol

 

Did that require removing body mounts or did you just "persuade" it?

 

I removed all body mounts and removed fuel line from pump, loosened the Ross steering box and moved body back. Both fenders were removed also, I chose this way since I wanted to replace body mounts too. It wasn't bad all done in a weekend.