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Re-built Engine, Need To Do Anything Before Starting

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Kiowaflier, Jul 4, 2017.

  1. Jul 4, 2017
    Kiowaflier

    Kiowaflier New Member

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    Good morning all, and happy 4th. Got a question about a 1959 CJ5, F134 engine. I recently got my engine back from the machine shop for an overhaul. Fresh rings, bearings, new cam shaft, etc. I just finished putting it and everything else back together under the hood. I tried turning the engine over by hand, and it is much stiffer than it was before the re-build (I have to really muscle the wrench to turn it over). I also tried cranking it over a few turns (no gas yet) and the battery really struggled to turn the motor over. Is this normal following a rebuild?

    Follow-up question to that: now that everything's back together, do I need to do anything before actually cranking it with gas? I've got oil, coolant and gas all in their respective tanks. The machine guy coated everything inside the motor with grease, but I'm not sure how long it takes for oil to start cycling all the way through?

    Thanks for the help.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2017
  2. Jul 4, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Stiffness at first is normal. You could tow it down the road in gear if that's a problem for the starter.

    No scientific evidence but I would just run it gently, at varied rpms, no heavy loads, for the first few hours.
    In olden times a 500 mile "break-in" period was normal. Modern ring materials etc have alleviated that requirement, but why not do it?

    Keep a close eye on coolant, oil, etc. Sometimes the coolant needs to be "burped" before all the air gets out of the block.

    Personally I like to do a couple of oil/filter changes in the first few hours of operation. Possibly re-torque the head bolts.

    All the above is just my intuition and opinion.
     
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  3. Jul 4, 2017
    Kiowaflier

    Kiowaflier New Member

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    Thanks. Any special techniques for getting it started the first time, e.g. priming the carb with gas?
     
  4. Jul 4, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Pre-heating the coolant was a trick my dad used. Probably not too important.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2017
  5. Jul 4, 2017
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Don't try to start it yet. Pull plugs, put a small amount of oil in the holes. Pull dist. Spin oil pump till you get oil to upper part of motor. Re check all bolts , clamps etc. Make sure t stat is working properly, Fill block with water first, if you have any internal leaks anti freeze will wipe out bearings. Put some gas in carb, put air cleaner back on , in case of a backfire. This is just some things to do off the top of my head. Do a google search for starting a new or rebuilt motor.
     
  6. Jul 4, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Being an f-134, have you filled the oil filter canister with engine oil?
     
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  7. Jul 4, 2017
    william_cj3b

    william_cj3b 3BOB driver

    Milton, FL
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    Here's my checklist from starting up my rebuilt F-head this spring (non-scientific based opinions only):
    • Charge your battery
    • Double and triple check - oil lines, wiring, carb linkage, fuel lines, oil level, coolant level.
    • Set I&E valve clearance to spec (0.018/0.016)
    • Read up on static timing the ignition.
    • Once your timing is set, pour about a teaspoon of gas down the carburetor throat and fire it up (this will save your starter). Repeat as needed. By the second or third try it should stay running. If not, check to see if fuel is getting to the carb.
    • Run it at various speeds while getting it up to operating temp. Watch for leaks, water temp & oil pressure. As Pete noted, the thermostat may be air locked after initial fill and need to 'burp'.
    • Once at temp and all is well, set your idle speed and timing. Make note of any leaks or other troubles. Shut it down and let it cool.
    • Retorque the head gasket. While the valve cover is off re-check the valve clearances. Make sure oil has collected on the top of the head around the valve springs.
    • Check fluid levels and look for cross contamination (water in oil, etc)
    • Road test. No sustained high speeds for the first couple hundred miles.
    • Change the oil and filter @ 500 miles
    • Tinker until your hearts content and enjoy!
    Good luck with it!
     
  8. Jul 4, 2017
    Kiowaflier

    Kiowaflier New Member

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    If I pull the distributor, can I spin the oil pump just using a long screwdriver? I just assumed the engine had to turn over to work the pump.
     
  9. Jul 4, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Technically, yes you can. It's also a good idea to prime the pump with vaseline.

    EDIT: Correction, no you can't. I recalled it wrongly.
     
    Last edited: Jul 4, 2017
  10. Jul 4, 2017
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

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    Also I would think on a 134 you would need to break in cam also. Check valve adjustment after cam. There is quit a bit to a first start on a new motor. Some folks will spend 2or 3 days just re checking things . You have a lot of time and money tied up in the build. Make sure you cover all the bases. Good luck.
     
  11. Jul 4, 2017
    william_cj3b

    william_cj3b 3BOB driver

    Milton, FL
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    No. Not on a L or F134. The distributor/pump gear is pinned to the oil pump shaft and engaged on the camshaft when installed.

    If you want to prime the oil system, pull the spark plugs and spin the engine with the starter.
     
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  12. Jul 4, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Ooops. You are right. Thanks for refreshing my memory.
     
  13. Jul 4, 2017
    Kiowaflier

    Kiowaflier New Member

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    Wheww, thanks...thought I was going crazy. I was looking at diagrams of my oil pump and trying to figure out how it could spin independent of the engine.
     
  14. Jul 4, 2017
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Sorry.:oops: My bad.

    Long time since I rebuilt an F-head.
     
  15. Jul 4, 2017
    rusty

    rusty Well-Known Member

    norfolk,va
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    Me too.
     
  16. Jul 4, 2017
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    Oldtime has an excellent writeup on starting a new f head over on the 3b page. Well worth the read.
     
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  17. Jul 5, 2017
    Mark Wahlster

    Mark Wahlster Member

    Silverton, OR
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    HIGH ZINC BREAK IN OIL
    With a new CAM you should start the engine and as soon as possible get it to over 2000 rpm to allow the cam and tappets to break in properly. Running at an Idle or low RPM can do damage.

    Crane Cams has a great break in procedure http://www.cranecams.com/uploads/breakin/548e.pdf
     
  18. Jul 5, 2017
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    If you haven't already started it and don't have one get an oil pressure gauge and crank it over without the spark plugs until you see oil pressure on the gauge. It shouldn't take long to get pressure.
     
  19. Jul 6, 2017
    eti engineer

    eti engineer Member

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    2X on what Rusty said about the coolant. The head cracked on my 530i BMW, and let glycol into the crankcase. Spun a rod bearing. I will never own another BMW as long as I live. Worst car ever...
     
  20. Jul 8, 2017
    Kiowaflier

    Kiowaflier New Member

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    I have the oil pressure light on my gauge (it's the cluster gauge with temp/fuel built into the speedo) and it does work, but I don't have an actual pressure gauge. The light usually doesn't go out until the engine has started and up to normal RPMs. I believe the switch is in the block next to the oil pump; could I connect a gauge to that switch?
     
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