2 Hole Steering Knuckle

I have found some closed knuckles that clearly have the second hole cast BUT no hole. Can these be easy drilled out? Or is that a fools errand. Thanks guys, interesting subject.

 

It would have to be a tapered hole....I'd keep looking.

 

If you own the proper tapered reamer, you can drill them and then ream the taper into the new hole. Or, if you are doing a tie rod flip all you have to do is drill a straight hole, then weld in the flip bung.

 

Ok, good to know and yeah as a possible side 'benefit' you could drill the correct hole. I plan on doing the flip as well. Really appreciate the info!

 

The dana 30 I put in came with the 2 holes. It's got the thick brake disc so I think it's about a '78. It's a good setup but it seems to limit how sharp I can turn. I'm not that great at getting it set up but I have tried and failed to get it set up to turn sharp both ways.

 

That's the knuckle I was talking about Tim- very beefed up on the area near the holes. Also, has the 2 small gussets down towards the body of the knuckle. Probably a good bet it came off the Dana 44.

 

Huh. The drawing in the book is representative of all FSJ models, '64-73. All of these applications use the same part number for the outer knuckle, so there was a single service part. This says to me that the geometry of all the knuckles is the same, regardless whether they were used on a 27, 30 or 44 axle. The lower GVWR axles may have used less iron or less reinforcement, or it may be that Jeep made the part stronger in later production.

 

IH trucks and scouts used a closed knuckle 27 and 44 too. Maybe from there?

Our old '67 pickup had a closed knuckle 44 front, but IIRC, the drag link was forward/back, not side/side.

 

Yes, all those directly interchange and in fact, except for the one versus two holes, all will bolt on any earlier D25.

 

There is at least one precedent of using a weaker/lesser part on production cars (to save money presumably) and only supplying the stronger/better part as the service part. The precedent: an intermediate steering bracket came in a 3-hole (for manual steering) or 4-hole (for power) versions, but only on factory vehicles. A single part number - the 4-hole bracket - was supplied as a service part. It will work for either. Could be the same for these knuckles.

There is also some advantage to keeping the number of stocking numbers down, even if it means upgrading the service part.

 

During the Willys and Kaiser eras; Jeep always updated (changed) part numbers whenever the slightest notable change occurred to any part.
Parts could have an identical function and near identical form yet received an independent number upon the design change.

I have not followed the AMC era part numbers close enough to say they did likewise during the post 1971 era.
AMC's parts sequencing policy may have changed.
As you well know, AMC did integrate a completely new system for parts identification that was implemented near the end of the 1971 model year.

 

I've been a parts salesman for 6 different OEM's
Car & truck, foreign and domestic
They all do that...any slight change in the part, or even a change in supplier, will result in an updated part #
Makes my job more...interesting

 

ok so found this image. I am planning on keeping everything stock from the pitman arm to the steering wheel. I am also planning on getting Herms single HD tie rod kit and 3 goforit inserts - for the tie rod flip. Stupid question: does the drag link always connect to the front hole of a 2hole knuckle??

 

Yes. Unless you could find two 2-hole knuckles and could use both front holes for the tie rod.... But curious... why?

The distance between the TREs and the knuckles' pivot points need to be the same between the L&R sides. If you put the DS TRE in the (rear) hole and the pass side TRE in the front hole, your steering geometry would be all messed up. The knuckle with the TRE in the rear hole would turn faster than the side in the front hole.

 

why are you looking at a 30

 

Thanks guys. I googled two hole closed knuckle and you would be surprised how many close ups there are but not many photos of the entire set up from one hub to the other. The photo was just to help me ask the question was all. Makes sense the tie rod would be ' even' from side to side and then the drag link be attached to front - furthest most hole. Appreciate you input and patience with all the questions. Hope to get this done by end of month , ready for spring. Cheers

 

I believe Herms tie rod kit is a one piece tie rod conversion for use with the stock knuckles. If using a 2 hole knuckle your tie rod should be longer because you would be eliminating the double tie rod end that receives the drag link. I have never seen the 2 hole knuckle used with the stock ross steering (not that that means anything). I think Herm can make you a custom length tie rod or you could shorten a dana 30 tie rod. Also I am not sure the drag link length would be correct - I would think it should be longer - going from your bellcrank to the 2 hole knuckle as apposed to the double tie rod end.

 

I just happened to measure the tie rod today on a Dana 25 axle with a passenger double knuckle.
The double knuckle Dana 25, 27 tie rod measures 38-1/4" OAL.
The drag link is often a custom length because it is dependent on the steering box positioning.

 

Hey guys thanks. Oldtime, thanks for the overall rod length. Helpful info!

 

So I suppose your intending to install to a power Saginaw box to a Dana 27 axle ?
Saginaw box locations can vary somewhat so the drag link will need to be a custom length.

Also note that you may need to have a certain length of pitman arm installed.
The specific pitman length required also depends on power Saginaw box location.

Note that D30 and D27 pitmanarm lengths will be different.
In other words if you ever change the front from D 27 to a D30 then the pitman arm and drag links length may be effected.