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Postal Dana 44 Build

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by a42pb, Jun 13, 2016.

  1. Jun 23, 2016
    gunner

    gunner Member

    Washington state...
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    Make sure you take some pics of using that alignment tool- you've heard what I've heard about using them- more important on the rear axle than the front when narrowing an axle (or lengthening as you are). Apparently the front axle has some allowance due to the u-joint, whereas the rear axle shafts have to be pretty much dead on or you start going through bearings, etc.

    Good write-up!
     
  2. Jun 24, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Thanks for the positive feedback guys. I'm back on the house remodel for now will get a few hours to goof off hopefully next week.
     
  3. Jun 25, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Got out to garage for a little bit to check the handy work not looking to straight. [​IMG]

    I was was lucky to have a light press fit on the axle end and got it pounded out of there. Checked things with string theory. [​IMG]

    String theory,framing and drywall square theory,and followed up with bore sight theory[​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  4. Jun 25, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    With the axle end pounded out I could maneuver it around some and line things up and check. Should have taken a good look beforehand. I think the spindle use as a lathe fixture is what may have messed things up which was my bad idea. The lathe we had to use was not the best .The shop was really hot that afternoon and we both were in cable guy mode I guess.will have to press out the sleeve and take a better look at things. As a side note the unmolested axle side looks like it could use a small adjustment as well.

    If axle tubing does not match up well a May have to ditch the sleeve and butt weld like this ?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Jun 25, 2016
    47v6

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    I think the sleeve idea is what you should use. The weld needs to be wide and thick enough to both weld the sleeve and the tubes together with a gap. You can also drill some holes in the tube to rosette weld the tube in place. Adjust with a BFH to make it straight and tack it. Remember that you will distort the tube if you're not careful while welding. Make several passes.

    The inside of the axle tube may not be perfect. It is not required for it to be perfect. The housing may not be perfect either. Do the best you can. You're not Currie or Moser.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  6. Jun 25, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Yea i think your right a internal sleeve will still be close enough to get r done. Going to try a simple sleeve stuffed in there. Don't worry I will not spare the BFH. Thanks for the advice. I am still having fun with the axle project
     
  7. Jun 25, 2016
    Daryl

    Daryl Sponsor

    Bonney Lake, WA
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    I have sleeved a few axles by simply turning down a piece to the internal size and welding it up. Don't over engineer a simple piece of steel that just has to have the outer flanges true to each other.
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  8. Jun 25, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Don't think that moser Currie comment went over my head there Mr tom woods drive shaft. I might just buy an alighnment bar and fuss over this housing all summer if u guys aren't nice to me
     
    ITLKSEZ likes this.
  9. Jun 25, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    I'm sure my posts make the type A, anal retentive machinists on this website cringe... But all of what I know about jeeps is what I've learned by not being afraid to waste time and wreck parts by trying something out of the ordinary. I report my experiences, be it successes or failures. There've been plenty of both.

    In my experiences, let me repeat - in my experiences, perfectly straight axle tube is ideal, but needing to get it straight to a few thousandths of an inch at the ends is just overzealous. Even if you have it dead-on before you weld, it's going to walk during welding. As I'm sure you know, the penetration you'll need to go deep enough to be effective will also require you to constantly check straightness during the weld and make adjustments as necessary.

    The rear in my 3b is a centered 44 that I built a truss for back before I understood that even a small weld could bend big steel. My truss is boxed 1/8" plate that goes along the tops of the tubes and over the housing. It warped my rear something horrible. I hooked it up to a bottle jack with chains to the ends while heating the truss. This got it close, but it's still about an 1/8" out at the ends. That was ~18 years ago, and I haven't touched it since. I just look at it as a custom, high-camber rear to aid in cornering. :)

    It's not like we are building rigs we are expecting to get 200,000+ miles out of with minimal maintenance. It's a rolling experiment. It's easy to get caught in the trap of putting more into it than it deserves. In all reality, 1/8" at the end of the tube is a microscopic amount in at the tip of the axle shaft. There is probably that much play in the splines.

    Just the ramblings of a sleep-deprived madman high on lacquer fumes. Ignore if you like. :whistle:
     
    47v6 likes this.
  10. Jul 1, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Hey guys I really do appreciate the advice here hope you don't mind me poking fun a little I only do that with people I like. Got some more picks of axle project here. As much as I enjoy the sound of hammer on steel and 4 letter words the first sleeve looked like a little too much fun. I do have a custom offset one I could let go for 20 bucks shipped.[​IMG]
     
  11. Jul 1, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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  12. Jul 1, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    New sleeve was made on the same lathe with just a simpler turn on both ends and with a little more care than last time. I think will work out a lot better and gave me an excuse to visit a fellow jeeper who is great to chat with. I think I will go with the roset weld idea 47v6 thanks. The pipe set up is crude but does jive with the other crude checking methods I have posted. The pipe is pretty straight but has enough wobble to use as a go no go type thing. Hope you are at least well entertained
     
  13. Jul 2, 2016
    47v6

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  14. Jul 2, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Thank for the links I did look at mc mastercarr on some ground stock. ITLKSTZ a couple of questions on the axle you mentioned you were able to get back around 1/8 inch. What you were using to check and did you have a lot of tire wear on street. I do enjoy running around town with it also will flat tow once or twice a year to the Sierra thanks
     
  15. Jul 2, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    I ran a piece of cold-rolled round stock through the tube and inner bearings that I measured to the wheel bearing seat area, and double-checked on the outside by measuring up from a straightedge under the axle to the tube. The inside measurement was way more accurate, but I just wanted some sense of a second opinion.

    I also held two straightedges against the axle tube flanges and measured ~12" above and below. That really didn't tell me much.

    I've had zero tire-wear issues (aside from running a welded rear on the street), but I'm sure that is only because my bend was directly up, not front or back. I just ended up with a slightly altered camber, rather than a toe-in or toe-out situation that would cause scrub.
     
  16. Jul 2, 2016
    47v6

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    If its only out a little bit I wouldn't be worried about the tires, but the side gears in the case. Honestly, has anyone actually checked any of these old axles to see how true they are are 40 or 50 years? How bad can it be? If you dont spend a bunch of money on this, you have nothing to lose and a lot to learn that you can share with us.
     
    sterlclan likes this.
  17. Jul 3, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

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    Thanks ITLSEV and 47v6 for the responses. I do not have much to lose here with these axles I still have another housing I can play with as well. I could probably hunt up another one for cheap too if needed
     
  18. Jul 8, 2016
    GraySkies

    GraySkies Always late, never finished...

    Western Washington
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    Hey a42, I found this article both interesting, and plausible to accomplish:

    Straightening A Bent Dana 44 Axle - Get Bent

    Maybe you should just weld it up, then straighten it afterward. There are numerous articles and write-ups on the internet with a similar theme. If I ever have the need, I'm going to try it.

    Also, my tubes have a seam in them. How are you accounting for the seam when you are doing the sleeve? Did you machine the ID of the tubes first?

    Subscribed! :)
     
  19. Jul 8, 2016
    a42pb

    a42pb Member

    atascadero ca
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    Thanks 4 the link greyskys I am thinking your right on the straightening after welding thing. I was thinking to play with the weld shrinkage as I weld it up. Will post up on how well that works out. I just ground a relief slot in the sleeve for the seam kinda crude will post up pics. Are u working on a booty fab axle also?
     
  20. Jul 8, 2016
    ITLKSEZ

    ITLKSEZ Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

    Liberty Lake, WA
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    Good link. That's essentially the same thing I did, but my jack was in the middle and I ran a chain under it to the sides. I then heated sections of my truss cherry red while under tension to get it to stretch. I let it all cool under tension and it had almost zero spring back.
     
    GraySkies likes this.
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