Clutch Lever Questions.

Hey all.

I want to get rid of the Borg and Beck style clutch that is in my T18 in my 1973 cj5 to cj6 project. I have a bad left knee. I drove my cousins bone stock 1974 cj5 with a Autozone diaphragm clutch and loved it. I can live with it but not this 3 Lever borg and beck.

When I ordered a new diaphragm clutch it came with this style throw-out bearing in it.

There were no options when ordering the clutch be it 3 or 4 speed

I thought it looked different than the throw-out bearing I have in it so I Stuck a Bore scope through the Fork hole and I saw this Style.



Would it be safe to say I just need the diaphragm clutch lever like this?


I would really like to get all my ducks in a row before I tear into this. Any help?

 

Sorry for the huge pics.

 

My book shows two types of throw out bearings. The one with the clip and rectangular plate is used from 1980 on. The lever for that has no pins; instead the clips go over the stamped steel ends of the lever. The bearing with the groove and lever with two pins is earlier.

Is your T-18 the original-equipment optional close ratio transmission that came with the Jeep or a swap? 6 or V8? Do you have a 3/4" plate adapter between the bell and transmission?

 

A quick call to my cousin in the first place who bought the jeep new would have I guess answered the questions. The original 4speed was swapped out for the 76 on up t18 at their local dealer in 1977 . The original "had issue's"

I changed clutches in this year's ago so I am not sure how I didn't end up with the wrong parts then. I remember just bringing in the old diaphragm clutch and asking for the Borg and beck type for a 73.

They must have cross referenced numbers on the old one. I guess I just need to order the 76+ clutch kit for it.

Looks like the stub shaft size is different as well.

Just everybody else's parts.

 

The '76 T-18 is an oddball with its own bell and input shaft. Otherwise it is the same as the '72-75 CJ T-18. The '77-79 T-18 is different, with wide ratio gears. They all use the same 10.5" clutch in the CJs.

A '76 has a 3224192 lever, which works with the clip-on bearing. So you should be ok with a diaphragm kit for 1976.

 

Just a small side-bar...I'm not 100% sure, but I'm thinking that a hydraulic conversion could help as well. I went with a diaphragm clutch in my '74 with T18, but also converted from mechanical to hydraulic action. Seems easier to me.

 

I ordered the later model Kit. Hopefully it all works out. I bought all new clutch bell crank junk from 4wd as well.

If it's as good as my cousins 74 I'll be alright. If it is still too rough on the knee the wagoneer 727 I have in the basement is going to get rebuilt and put in it..

 

Don't think that the comparison between what your friend has vs what you have will work.........First off if you have an issue with to much force required to accurate the clutch pedal you should first answer a few other questions about the comparison between the two before you proceed.............like what size motor & HP do you have along with tire size and gear ratio vs your friends ride?

Plate loads in PSI in a pressure plate are there to control the amount of torque that your package will generate............to low of pressure and the clutch will slip in High gear or under the greater load.........to much pressure and the clutch package will not be forgiving enough during the transition between gears and also be tough on your leg.

If your happy with the way the clutch performs slippage wise other than it is hard on your leg I would first try to increase the mechanical advantage at the clutch pedal........to make it easier on your knee. That subject has been covered here in the forums many times before.

 

Holy cow what a reply..

His is easier to push mine sucks.

I remember my diaphragm clutch not sucking so much?


Will that comparison work?

We both have pretty much stock 304s
He has 3.73s and 33's

I have 3.55s and that's about it.

 

Again I can't say nor could anyone else say whether or not the components he has would be comparable in your Ride! ............I'm just saying take what you have and see if you can improve upon it in as much as lessening that pedal pressure...........have you looked at your linkage vs his including your ratio? A good ratio for a mechanical linkage clutch at the pedal is about 6:1 between the X & Y. Of course you also have to follow that linkage downstream to the clutch fork into the clutch ball and onto the candlestick where the release bearing resides............any part along the way that has increased friction or is out of alignment will increase the pedal pressure.

 

OK thanks.