Found A Local Flanged Axle, But...

I have offset flanged axles with 3.73, 4.27 and 5.38.....and no the are not for sale. I have a buddy with a 2a and a grand national charged V-6 and 5.38 gears!! Can you say high gear take offs I like the 4.27's but when I switched to the 3.73's for racing I picked up about 15 mph in 300ft. It ran 45mph all day and went to 60mph in the traps

 

Having had had a flanged axle shaft exit my axle housing I'd say not worth the effort. If you're looking for an improvement over tapered go full float conversion. Even swapping full axles costs u-bolts.

 

The axle tube are much stronger on a later flanged axle housing. A tapered axle housing really isn't worth the cost of a full float kit unless you have a specific need such as flat towing.

 

I sold a rebuilt 1970 Offset Flanged Dana 44 to a member a couple years back.
It was really nice with the Trac Loc removed and a 30 spline Powr Lok installed.
Had optional 4.89 gears.

Just the other day I was really wishing I had that axle back.
Then Bingo ! Right outta the blue....
One showed up a couple days ago on my local CL.
A 1971 offset flanged in great shape with Trac Lok and the desireable 4.89 gears.
I nabbed it last night before the competition showed up.
Not exactly dirt cheap, but easily worth $350 plus the trip to go get it.
Now I'll be wanting another 30 spline Powr Lok... Hmmmm....

Anyway yes by all means the axles should match the remainder of the drive train; otherwise you may promote an unwanted weak link.
The drive train basically includes available engine torque, clutch torque, transmission gearing, transfer gearing and propeller shaft strength.

From your signiture description your Jeep drivetrain is fairly well matched as it is.
If you upgrade the tapered 44 you should also consider upgrading the Dana 27 and the T-14.

Make sense ?

I must agree. I have several of both type.
Both tapered and flanged D44 axles.
The tapered axles are excellent but I'll be selling all of my tapered axles if you understand what I'm saying.

 

Do you have an Overdrive Focker? You'll want one if you're gonna run the 5.38 R&P's. That said, you'd be making a pretty good upgrade by swapping in both a flanged 44 rear and a D30 front assuming they were set up correctly. Your disk brakes will swap right over to the 30 so no worries there. There were some 4 cylinder jeeps produced with 5.38 R&P's with the flanged axle in 70 and 71. They're relatively rare though as I think most opted for the V6 which would have had 4.88 or 3.73 or even 4.27 possibly.

For changing R&P's you'll probably need some additional shims on hand and a good bearing puller so as not to destroy the bearings in the process... but.... Why wouldn't you replace bearings that are 45 years old while you're in there, right? You'll need a dial indicator to check your backlash BEFORE you take it apart, and reset it to the same spec when you put it back in.... Run a pattern BEFORE you take them apart so you can get it back the same as well. Used gears, if not set back to where they've been run, can end up noisy and potentially wear badly if not put back in the same pattern. It's not rocket science, but it definitely takes patience.

 

How much for the whole Jeep?

 

flanged 44 with 5:38's factory is a very rare bird indeed! I'd take the whole jeep in a second! then you have the matching front ratio as well. Clean up both axles and swap them in in an afternoon. part out the rest.