Tube Flaring Tool

I need a good flare tool for 3/16 brake lines. I'm frustrated by all the junk out there. I have a K-D Tools flare kit. The one with the two big wing nuts. The 3/16" die has broken too many times. I'm tired of buying new ones.

I searched around and found a Ridgid 23332 on Amazon. Ridgid makes good stuff. The ad clearly states it's for double lap flares. And I was careful to look for that when searching. It just arrived, I open it and NO double lap buttons. The instruction state they are available separately. Gee thanks Amazon.

I have a roll of 3/16" NiCopp line and will be re-plumbing the entire jeep..... if I can ever find a decent flaring tool. I don't mind paying for good tools even if the use is infrequent.

Does anyone know of a decent flaring tool?

 

I got a mac tool one . the trick for flaring is . de burr the ends of tube with a small round and flat file . then spray the tubing and dies with WD40 before you begin the flaring . I broke several of the inverted dies , before I learned how

 

I have used the Ridgid frame with the dies from a K-D set. I also have this Cal-Van tool and it works well. Super price on CalVan Tools - 164 at ToolTopia.com

It's true - you have to prepare the tubing end meticulously. I also put a drop of brake fluid on the die for lubrication.

The Cal-Van set is available with larger dies, and I might try those if I could not use the Ridgid frame etc. Cal Van 165 Fuel Line Flaring - Fuel System Tools

The next step up from there is the Eastwood tool (ca $200), said to be the same as the Sykes-Pickavant tool. The best is the Mastercool hydraulic tool (ca $300)... from what I've read.

 

I have that ridged flare tool.

I have made a lot of flares with it...... that weren't right.

The cone thing is not centered on mine. The trick for me is to turn the tube as I am making the flare to even out the differences. Loosen the holder, turn the tube, etc.

After I figured that out it works pretty good, that with NiCopp tube.

I wouldnt buy it again.

Check Imperial flaring tool. It might be better.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys. Yes, well aware of the end preparations. I don't use a tuber cutter as they do deform the end. I use a 32 TPI hacksaw blade, then a small flat file to ensure it's square. Tapered reamer for the ID, file the OD and polish it with Cratex. And lubrication.

I like the Cal Van 165 that Tim suggested. So I go online to buy one. I find that as well as Tool Discounters as shown in the link that Amazon has it. So with my Amazon Prime it's only $2 more with 2nd day shipping. Put it in the shopping cart, go to check out and up pops an error message! "Cannot ship to that address" Huh? The item description ends with "non-CARB compliant". CARB is the California Air Resources Board AKA the smog nazis. Amazon will not ship a flaring tool to my California address because of this. Screwed by Amazon twice in two days. I ordered it from Tool Discounters.

 

I use the Blue Point tool. Believe it's Imperial brand that Snap On sells. Have made hundreds of flares with it. One issue is breaking the 3/16 mandrel. Fwiw I always use a tubing cutter to get the end square. Ream the tube a bit. Put the tube in the tool at the correct height as set on the mandrel. Set the mandrel on the tube and press it down until it stops against the tool. Remove the mandrel and finish the double flare with the taper. I don't crank the tapered tool too tight while making the flare because it can distort the end. Have never used anything as a lubricant, have to try that. Hope this helps someone.

 

I've also had good results with the Blue Point set using it exactly as Oldriginal86 described.

 

If you are REALLY serious about it.... I bought one of these. I figured with at least 4 vehicles needing lines it wouldn't cost anymore in the end than buying all pre-made lines.
http://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71475-PRC-Universal-Hydraulic-Flaring/dp/B007TN15EG

 

My SIL and I used that tool to replace all the brake lines on my 2A. Used steel line and that tool worked perfectly - awesome.

 

I just did a bunch of lines on mine, never used any lubricant and have had no issues. My tool was my grand fathers from the 1930/40's.