Auxillary Electric Fuel Pump

Which electric fuel pump is best to back up the mechanical one on a V6?

Fltfndr

 

Are you having fuel issues? I have never needed an auxiliary fuel pump on anything I've owned. To be on the safe side a new mechanical pump on board would be a lot easier and cleaner imho

 

generally you need one or the other. The mechanical one should work fine and is like 25 bucks. The electric ones that aren't in tank are loud so I have heard.

 

I've got a frame mounted external electric on my hotrod, as the 302 I've got in it doesn't have any provision for a mechanical, and it's noisy as hell. Something I'll probably change at some point in the future

 

The rotary fuel pumps are quieter than the pulse type but still whine quite a bit. And are more expensive. Like they said, if the fuel pump is in good condition and no problems with the fuel pump eccentric then I'd run the mechanical. No need for an external regulator, quiet, etc.

 

I have one on my Apache that looks kinda like an in line fuel filter. It isn't very noisy but it also isn't a real kick *** pump rate.
I like it because I don't run the truck much and it saves cranking the starter to fill the carb.

 

Back in the day, all Jeepers carried a spare mechanical fuel pump. Just buy an extra, put it in a bag and stash it in the tool box. Typically there is lots of room under the hood in a Jeep, so changing the pump is an easy job.

It's also easy to rig a gravity feed from the cowl if you have a can of gas and some fuel hose. A bad fuel pump should not strand you. (Fuel hose is another thing you should carry as spare parts - say 6' of 5/16" hose, to serve as emergency spares or a siphon hose if needed).




My CJ-6 suffers from dry float bowl after sitting many days. The PO had a Mr. Gasket fuel pump on the inner fender that was in series with the feed from the tank. Worked fine to fill the bowl, but was really loud.

 

Or the Rexall Rescue Gravity Feed Fuel System.

 

Looking to add an inline electric that will flow thru when not powered. Need for vapor lock or high altitudes and intermittent use.

Fltfndr

 

On one of my Landcruisers I had two fuel tanks and parallel fuel systems (tank to injector pump). In short, both lines had pumps both had non-return valves. They never ran at the same time.

I see no reason that you could not rig a shunt line with an electric pump to use when needed. You would not need a flow-through pump, just a set of T fittings, a NR valve, a few feet of fuel hose and, of course, a fuel pump. I like the impeller type pumps - durable and a lot quieter than the diaphragm type.

 

Always wondered what those attachments were for...

 

i run something like this on my '71. not too loud but you don't want it powerful either as you could over power the needle and over flow

 

Adding a pulse type electric pump in series will allow fuel to draw through it but will add more restriction then there was before. So the mechanical pump might actually work worse when the electric is off. A rotatory pump will not allow the mechanical to draw through.

 

My jeep has had an electric pump since I bought it. I don't like the noise. But I do like the fact that I can fill the bowl before starting. My V6 will start instantaneously no matter how long it sits. I like that and don't want to change it.

 

It's pretty common to add an auxiliary electric pump on antique cars. I once read a compelling article to put the pump in parallel with the stock mechanical pump although most put it in series. You can use a dash mounted switch to turn on the electric to fill an empty carb that sits a lot or to deal with vapor lock as others have mentioned.
One thing to consider is that the electric pump may continue to run after an accident if the driver is disabled and doesn't turn off the key/switch. This can result in fire and injury. There are a few different ways to safety the electric pump so it will automatically turn off (bump safety switch, oil pressure switch, etc.).

 

Are douche bags gasoline proof? I made a temporary gas tank for testing motorcycles without the tank on out of a quart brake fluid can, by soldering copper tubes one at the bottom edge for an outlet, and one with a loop in it at the top for a vent. It has worked great for starting motor for many years. Just a suggestion, Good luck what ever you do.

 

I have an electric from a PO. Now installed the proper mechanical one. Was trying to think how to keep both so a switch on the dash and running the lines in parallel would work. I also heard the mechanical will pull through the electric but not sure.

 

Had an electric plumbed inline with a mechanical. Was great when needed, didn't seem to affect normal ops.

 

I had a Holley red pump plumbed in line with a mechanical pump and it fed fine .... I did have to use it one time on a very remote trail as my mech pump was only feeding 2 lbs......and it did not overpower the needle in the 2G

 

Only looking for an in line electric to handle vapor lock and climbs at high altitude. intermittent use and must flow thru when not powered