Rochester 2GC

Got a reman Rochester 2GC with the auto choke. The carb I removed had a manual choke setup. The new carb fires up and idles, but the idle is inconsistent. After warming up you can kick it down into normal idle but as soon as the gas is touched again it tries to choke itself. A few questions:

How does the hot air auto choke work? There is a threaded port on the bottom side of the choke housing, what gets run to this?

Are there any other hook ups off the carb besides distributor, PCV, gas, and choke?

Does the hot air auto choke actually work or should I go back to manual choke?

 

The hot air chokes work, but you have to have a heat source off the manifold and a tube to run to the carburetor. You could convert it back to manual choke, or you could get an electric choke cap off of a later Rochester carburetor and run a 12 volt power lead to it.

 

I have a port on the manifold that is capped off so I'll run it from there. So manifold port to choke port should fix my crazy choke/ idle issues.

 

Only if the capped off port you speak of is a heat port, not a vac port.

 

I'm pretty sure that the rubber capped one is vacuum. The other has a capped brass fitting screwed into it. This is lined up with the left rear mounting hole for the carb a few inches back. If both of these are vacuum where would a good heat source be on the manifold? I read somewhere that exhaust manifolds can be used but I have headers.

 

The manifold they are talking about is the exhaust manifold. You are talking about the intake manifold.

 

Then what are my options for hooking up this choke setup then? I have no experience with this type of thing so I need any and all suggestions.

 

Not having stock exhaust manifolds I reading as my best option is to go get a manual choke kit and do away with the hot air setup. Thanks for the help as always.

 

There is a retrofit kit for headers. It clamps on a header tube then the metal line goes from the clamped portion to the choke housing.
Having said that, I'd recommend going electrical or manual with my preference being manual.

 

Manual is simple..

 

...but electric is nice!
I pump my throttle once and she fires right up and idles nicely.

 

Some would question whether an EMP-vulnerable EFI is an upgrade. But those people would be crazy, right? I mean, what's the odds of North Korea or Iran actually getting a small nuke into an ICBM that need only be minute-of-state accurate? Crazy talk. But even if they weren't crazy, their non-EFI Jeep would only have the fuel range to get them from where they are back to home (where they may have several dozen gallons of stabilized fuel) And in the case of an EMP pulse how important could it be to actually get home. Probably be some kind of tailgate or block party on the freeway, would be a shame to miss the fun. Or camp out at work for a few days. Sure, the vending machines will be empty on day 1 but there's gotta be some mayonaise packets in the break room fridge.

Now I know all of that is crazy talk, and that there never will be an EMP pulse from a small crude nuke blown up in the ionisphere. And there will never be another solar flare hit the earth like what happened in 1859 (look up Carrington event), and probably happened a few thousand times before we had hundreds of miles of telegraph wires to prove Faraday's Law (telegraph poles caught fire) so went unnoticed. But again, the fuel in one's tank is only enough to get one home, so how important is an EMP-proof vehicle anyhow? I'm sure wives and children are well enough trained to manage the situation while we fight for the last bag of skittles at the break room vending machine.

The good news is the Army has disclosed that they have directional EMP-capable drones that can knock out a small down or section of a city. And they're on our side so it's only bad news for the bad people, and I'm not one of those. And if US Army figured it out, then probably nobody else can figure out. And the gov probably won't have them hung next to the surveillance cameras at every intersection red light for a few more years (or didn't you notice those new cameras). Or mobile-mounted to the free MRAPs that were passed out like Obama Phones these past few years.

People who believe that crazy crap are at least paranoid fools and at most dangerous. If you know of people who refuse to give up point ignition systems so their vehicles start and idle like a new Chevy Cobalt you may want to stop associating with them. Probably overkill to report them for now. But for sure keep an eye on them. See something, say something.

If I were a crazy person with a carb my first choice would be to get the original choke system working, using the manifold warming tubes because those actually sense engine temperature. If that is not an option I'd instead go with a manual choke. If that is too much of an inconvenience to press the lever in when the engine is warmed up I'd go with electric with the understanding that it's a crappy solution that works OK for fair-weather vehicles but marginal for vehicles that are driven in varying temps. The electric choke has no idea what your engine temp is, or whether it should actually be opening the choke. All it knows is the temp inside the platic cover used to be cool and now is warmed up because the heating coil was energized long enough to make the choke open.

 

Wow...
Tinfoil hat, anyone?

 

If you were wearing it, it might shield your implanted brain chips from the pulse... would that be good or bad?

 

My 71 has a manual choke. Using it becomes second nature. I only need to actually close the choke in cold weather. Other than that I just pull it out about 1/3rd of the way to put the carb in fast idle for warm up after starting the engine. I would not want to deal with an auto choke because it is just one more system that can fail.

 

Chilly well done
Are you ok?
Kind of an interesting rant there bro, I am smiling as I am typing, thanks for sharing. Dale

 

same issue for me....This is what i did...cheap, simple, works....

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...earch_manual+choke_-1_-1&keyword=manual+choke