Flat Towing

I suspect the problem with the wheels might be the shackles. Most likely the shackles have canceled the positive caster and caster is what makes the wheels steering straight ahead.

 

I had the problem that was at the start of this thread (steering not tracking) mostly because of a 1" shackle lift which changed the caster angle. By adding a 2 degree shim under the spring mount, it eliminated the problem. There are several posts on this also.

 

yea but it would have been an adventure for sure

 

I'll probably go down in flames for posting here regarding anything to do with flat towing (FT), but I've always lived on the edge so here goes.

I've flat towed locally (few hundred mile trips) around my state, but am planning to head through multiple states (calif/Nevada) in several weeks. Has anyone actually been stopped or cited for flat towing without brakes? I love the simplicity of 4 down and no hassles of a big trailer and I have a large trailer. Laws outside of my state seem to require brakes on anything over 1500 #wt. With my truck and four wheel disc brakes and the weight of it, I barely feel the flatty when braking or anytime as far as that goes

I have acquired the parts and built an air brake ram, including a brake away switch, but have not built the mounts needed. I also still need to install the compressor, wiring and air tank reservoir, but this won't happen for awhile. Without the air compressor and tank, I doubt I have spent $60 on it all.

The other question is; I've always considered that FT adds no tongue weight, but was pondering whether hard braking actually puts downward (or upward) pressure on your hitch. The reason I ask is that I already have a 42" hitch extension and am looking at a 60" hitch extension so I can eventually take my MC.

This is really hard to push the send button. Maybe I should have started a new thread..............

 

I'd hold off on any hitch extension; I realize you make hitch adjustments with campers.
You don 't want the tail to be wagging the dog.....
The longer the hitch extension, the longer the tail.
I don't believe you're in for any troubles with your rig as long as you drive responsibly.
In other words, don't give them a reason to pull you over, wink, wink.
I've not had any law trouble flat towing my Jeep between Colorado and Calif.
Your experience could always be different.......

Lots of folks flat tow in this state; most don't have towed vehicle braking devices.
My dad has a unit on his XJ Cherokee when towing it behind his motorhome.

 

The "tail wagging the dog" advice is sound, in principle, but I doubt it will be a problem with a little flatfender Jeep towing behind a 1 ton dually with a big a** camper in the bed.
As far as legality, I've flat towed for 1000's of miles with no problems, but I have no idea what the legal requirements are...probably most police officers couldn't say either! Often, regulations like that will vary from state to state

 

Brakes on a towed vehicle? Use to drag my CJ-5 all over the Western US Deer Hunting. Colorado , Utah, Wyoming , Idaho a couple of thousand miles a trip each year flat towing , did not like how the Jeep fully loaded would push the 3/4 ton Chevy truck (disc front drum rear) around during long down hill braking.........

[I]To answer your question , I've personally found that a longer hitch length does start to accentuate a pogo effect on some roads during braking at the hinge point or ball hitch..........It's also important to have the hitch level between vehicles..........Not really sure what you mean about an air brake ram? And how that would work.[/I]

As far as my Jeep and not liking the braking effect I had , I did some research with the folks at MICA Valves years ago and they speced a valve that was for a two brake / master cylinder position system like what would be used in a travel crane or digging machine........one set of brake controls in the truck cab for travel and another in the crane or digging machine cab both able to actuate the same wheels without pushing fluid back into the idle master cylinder.......

Using a trailer surge brake hitch on a tow bar is how I solved that. Of Course the tow bar stayed with the Jeep at all times. It's master was plumbed into just the rear 11" drum brakes on my Jeep.................Towed like a dream........you could shut it down at 60-65 mph anywhere and it would stop just fine in a reasonable distance...........did 3 other tow bars for friends and never pursued it beyond that.......MICA made it very clear that the valve they sold me was not designed for that purpose "period".........but once I figured out the plumbing......it was fine.........there is an obscure law in Cally that says that any vehicle that has brakes in a towed vehicle , the controls for that system must be in the towing vehicle????? Been stopped several times over the years by law enforcement out of state, most times cause they wanted to see the Jeep and the Deer racks that were on display after a Hunt......they seen the hitch but never really asked any questions.......

 

My Jeep will wag my Dodge truck at 75 while being towed.
So I don't go over 75.....which is legal in some western states.

 

I flat tow more than I ever did. It's just the better way to go. Never had a problem with legalities.

I've built my own tow bar of 2"x2"x1/8". I've made it long and really like that way. It behaves so well on the open highway. And is not any big deal on tight dirt roads either.



As you can see it's beefy and has the right geometry. I would be wary of any sort of hitch extension beyond 6"

My current tow rig is my 1998 F-250. It tows like a charm. For about 8 years I dragged my jeep around with a Ford Ranger, fully loaded (well beyond rated limit), but never had any problems.
I firmly believe that driving cautiously is key when towing.

 

Tarry, that's a cool brake system you came up with. I don't think I have the knowledge base to understand the valve you're describing. The connection into the jeeps' brake line isn't just a typical hydraulic disconnection is it? I like the idea, it's relatively simple (which I like) up to connecting into the brake line and keeping air from entering, which I think you were describing and I don't understand and not because of you, but me.

Sorry, my terminology for air brake ram is just a name for a crude copy of the generic brake buddy that comes in a box for $$$. Step on the brakes and the 12V Solenoid opens with pressure and when you let off the opposite solenoid opens allowing the air to rapidly bleed off. I originally didn't have the normally open solenoid as a manifold and the ram just stay erected.....oooops. My math tells me with a air ram that size I will need (in theory) about 25 to 35 PSI to match my FT. Lbs of leg pressure on the brake pedal for assisted braking.

I'm not as concern with no towing brake normally (expect getting dinged $), but I am a little concern when I head through LA and San Diego area to see my son at Camp Pendleton. Fast...panic stops seem to happen often in those big city areas.

 

I like terry's setup for dual mcs a set of line locks could also be used and let one back up. One thing that bothers me on the air system is there is no way to adjust the force applied. I wouldn't want to ease on the brakes and have it fire the jeep brakes for panic and visa versa.

 

And now: resurrected from the archive from back in 2011 we have -- Flat Towing. This is actually a subject that really should be kept in an up-to-date file some where.

 

Not Handy........still have the valve may have some pictures before I took it all apart.......I'll find the valve and post a picture........be patient , working on a project in another town , that's taking all my spare time. If you don't see it , send me a PM to remind me.

 

I flat-towed 525 miles last year through California and Nevada and never had a problem with Highway Patrol.

 

In Washington state you are required to have brakes on any load being towed if it is over 3000 pounds or more then 40% of the towing vehicles weight. One more reason to not flat tow here. Camping world has a half dozen different options for braking systems. Remember just because you have done it for 40 years without an issue doesn't mean that in case of a serious accident that your insurance company will have an easy out to not cover your loss. Just ask your insurance agent first if you are indeed specifically covered while flat towing in your state. Here it makes absolutely no difference what state your plates are from either,

 

I did not know that. When I lived in Wa State i flat towed my 2a and never got pulled over. When I registered it I towed it to the state police inspection station where they gave me a new VIN that they drive riveted to the frame and ddidnt give me grief. Guess they should have, maybe they did....

 

I've towed my CJ for thousands of miles. My F250 tows it like it's not even there. The dual piston front discs and 12x3 rear drums will stop it, even going over Colorado mountain passes. But the insurance thing is something I'd never considered...I mean, truck and Jeep are both covered on the same policy, but I am going to call my insurance agent to make sure my policy covers this.