Dana 27 Lock-Right Install

Wow - it's been a while since I posted! All these new member names - seems like a whole new place!

I have searched high and low for a thread or tech info on a front axle (d27) Lock-Right install. Anyone who hasn't swapped to a d30 remember the process when they did theirs? Is it possible in the d27 to get the locker in there without removing the carrier from the diff housing? How far do the axles need to slide out? Is there enough play to just yank the locking hubs off and pull the axle as far as it will go?

Also - anyone know if Richmond even makes the hardened cross shaft for a d27 Lock-Right? I can't find any info on buying it separately - and it did not come with one.

 

You normally have to pull the carrier all the way out and remove the ring gear unless you have some really high gears (3.xx)

 

I've got 3.73's in there, but was hoping maybe I wouldn't have to pull the carrier out at all and could slip the spiders out and slip the Lock-Right in without having to yank the spindles on both sides in order to pull the axles far enough out.

 

It'd be just as easy to go ahead and pull the carrier.. you have to go as far as removing the spindles anyhow to get the axles out far enough to pull the spiders and it's only another 4 bolts to get the carrier on the bench.


BUBBA

 

Be sure to mark the carrier bearing caps so that you can re-install them on the same sides and in the same position. Very important. Also, they don't just fall out after you remove the caps. You usually have to pry them out. I use a couple of prybars and maybe a piece of wood to protect the part of the housing you are prying on. When it does come out it will be all at once so be ready. When you put it back in, put the outer bearing races on, set it in place and use a block of wood and a BFH to tap it back in. Good luck. It may seem daunting, but it's really not that big of a deal. Just be patient.

 

Every Dana pumpkin (on the gasket surface) and cap that I have ever seen is marked from the factory. On the Old ones, look for a vertical bar on one side and a horizontal bar. On newer ones, there are letters

 

I put a Lock Right in my Dana 27 while the carrier was in the diff housing, but did have to grind a little piece of slag off the carrier housing.

 

Pulled the driver side axle, and tried to do the install in the vehicle. Too difficult to get that d*$# cross shaft set pin out with the carrier in the housing. Pulling the passenger side axle tomorrow and yanking the whole carrier out. I agree - it's easier that way.

It'll be easier to fully clean all the sludge out of the housing and off the gears with everything out anyway.

 

Ok - I'm at a stuck point.

Carrier is out, Lock-Right is going in. Instructions say to place thrust washers on outside of each driver piece. They didn't provide any in the kit, so I assume you are supposed to re-use the old ones, which I did. However, with both driver pieces in, the second coupler will not fit into the carrier through the openings on the carrier. (The teeth on the coupler hit the carrier by about a mm or two.)

Without the old thrust washers, it would probably fit, but then it would be the coupler face directly against the carrier face.

Would probably fit if I ground a little notch in the carrier. But I hesitate to do that for fear of weakening it.

Anyone else have this problem???

 

Yes, I just installed an Aussie locker in my dana 30 carrier about 2 weeks ago and I had to mill about an 1/8" out of the corners on 1 side of the carrier to get everything back in.
My instructions actually mentioned this in them, except they said grind or file, I had a milling machine sitting there and it was faster so I used it. I wouldn't really worry about the strength issue.

 

Mike, only you would be able to say "I had a milling machine sitting there."

The best I have, however, is a die grinder. So - off to grinding I go.

I can't wait to get her all back together and try her out this weekend.

Thanks for the help. We'll see if I can't now break something on the Rubicon this summer with a locked up front diff.

 

I don't suppose you'd try to snap a few pics of the install process would you? I'm planning a locker in my 27 sometime and it'd be handy to see pics of all the parts and pieces.

 

Got it.
Reversing them didn't work.
Had to grind a little bit.

Seems a little loosey goosey once it's all back in the diff housing. The design seems to allow a little bit of play between the cross pin and the driver pieces. (I guess it needs that room in order to allow room for the springs to ratchet.) But that play seems like it would cause extra stress on the cross pin. But then again - the weak point on the d27 is probably elsewhere anyway - like the u-joints and axle shafts.

We'll see how it works this weekend.

John - I did take some pics. I can email them to you if you'd like.

 

Sure thanks...send them to john@barnardandsons.com

I won't need them for a while, but I'll save them till I do.

 

I have lots of new thrust washers for the front diff spider gears; anyone doing this job contact me and for the price of postage you can have 4 new washers.
from previous posts, I recall the instructions state you should use new ones.
posting this for search purposes