Clutch cross shafts -- Is there a difference?

The last 6 is 354724. I'm guessing it will make a difference if I've got the 941232 and the 947223 instead of the other set up?

 

O.K. so your serial number is #8305-XXX-354724.
That indicates your particular jeep was original with the "late" D-225/T14 clutch control.
Originally your jeep had the # 991143 "rod" (at 10.28") and the # 991145 "lever and tube assembly" .

So that begs the question...
Just why did jeep go from the "early" D225/T14 clutch control to the "late" D-225/T14 clutch control ?

As I've stated before... Kaiser Jeep Corporation was a logical organization.
They did not merely change parts without reason.
So what then was the reason for this particular change ?

We already know that the engine and the T14 transmission remained constant.
So that leaves 3 other possible changes that could effect the clutch control system.

The clutch lever would obviously effect the leverage yet the D-225 clutch "lever" GM # 1378486 was never changed. So it too remains constant.

The bellhousing and the clutch pressure plate both did change during that same general time line from 1969-1971.

From what I understand the bellhousing change occurred in 1971.
Jeep went from BOP bellhousing # 9774035 to Jeep bellhousing # 994081.
When Jeep went to this special 1 piece bellhousing they simultaneosly implemented the change to the long cable for clutch control.
The "long cable" (58-1/2") eliminated several parts of the previous clutch control.
They eliminated the rod, the release cable and also the tube and lever assembly.

The only thing that changed that could have warranted the "late" D-225/T14 clutch control was the implementation of the # 994843 (DANA three finger type) pressure plate assembly.
The earlier pressure plate assembly was the # 948692 (Borg Beck diaphragm type).
The change from diaphragm type to the 3 finger pressure plate assembly mandated the change to the "late" D-225/T14 clutch control system.

Because you previously stated that you presently have a diaphragm type clutch; I suggest that you install the "early" D225-T14 clutch control system which was designed to work with the diaphram type clutches.

Got that ?

 

I understand that 100%.

Thankfully I have the Bell housing with the T-14 adapter so that also ought to warrant the early style clutch control.

I owe you some kudo's there Ken!

 

FYI the early 9774035 bellhousing was used for both "early" and "late" D-225/T14 clutch control.

My understanding is that the old fashioned "lever and tube assemblies" were not used with the 1971 "jeep" bellhousing.
Apparently the change from diaphragm to the three finger pressure plates occurred just prior to your jeeps D.O.M.

 

What would I use for I have a 63 CJ5 with a 225 V6 Dauntless? It still has the riveted tube to the frame that where a a lot of clutch pedal movement is coming from.

 

(this is in answer to #10)

Sure you do.

Just replace the rod with all-thread and two clevises (clevii?). And lock nuts.

Lay your rod down and spin the clevis down to match the length.

Or get your kid to crawl under there with you and a tape measure and measure the distance from the pedal tab to the tube tab and set up your threaded rod to match.

 

Question: When did the pedals change from thru-the-floor to hanging? Would that coincide with the use of the 58 inch cable?

 

Depends on type of clutch assembly and the transmission that is installed. Normal Dauntless clutch assembly is 10.4 " .
It has either a 3 finger type or a diaphragm type pressure plate.
Please identify those parts.

1972 and later Cj's.
The 58" cable clutch control was used prior to 1972.

 

I can't speak for all clutch tubes, but I can speak for the 8.5 inch vs 9 inch F-134 clutch tubes. If you can examine several clutch tubes for different clutches, you'll find out that the "clocking" of those tabs is different. That is, if you put both clutch tubes with one tab at 12 o'clock, the other tabs will not be a the same "time" as each other.

Now, this might seem to be an easy problem to work around by changing the length of the rods, but it aint. Since the arc of the tabs will be different for different clocking, the length of the pull on the cable side will be different as well.

I fought this problem for close to a year in a CJ6 that I have, and concluded that I needed more travel of the tab. That's when I discovered that the 9 inch tabs are different from the 8.5 inch tabs. With the correct tube in the jeep the transmission shifted like new.

I would imagine that the V6 tubes would be different from either of the f-134 tubes. I'd also imagine that the repro part people could care less about clocking of the tabs, and generate one style of tubes and say that it would fit all.

One could take any cross tube and cut it in half and have it re-welded to the correct clocking position if he had a pattern which would show the correct clocking.

 

I agree.
It seems to me that many repro assemblies are often cobbled together with little regard concerning the blueprint design.

 

Anyone have a good photo or diagram for working on the clutch pedal system for the first time?

 

Well as I am new to this jeep it is appearing that I do not have a 225 Dauntless and have a 198 Fireball instead. Still trying to confirm as it does have a 2brl carb which i read that it should only have 1brl. It's a puzzler. Anyhow, so with that I have to assume the tranny/transfer and Clutch pedal system is original to a 63 CJ5. Still wondering what is the parts that I should replace before tearing apart. Again I see the tube bracket that can be replaced but not the shaft that goes in it. What usually wears at that connection point?