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Grounding aluminum radiator?

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by nwedgar, Dec 7, 2014.

  1. Dec 7, 2014
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
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    So I purchased an aluminum radiator and wanted to ask the collective about grounding it.

    I could install it just like the OEM copper core, which would probably ground it through the bolts to the frame. Or, I could use rubber or fiber washer insulators to keep it from being grounded.

    I understand galvanic corrosion, etc., and that the coolant itself can be a conduit for stray voltage/static electicity as it moves through the radiator...but the websites I've searched don't have conclusive information on what to do, ground or not to ground.

    I'd like this radiator to last, so, I'd like to hear personal experiences in this matter...or just some good 'ol ECJ5 knowledge.
     
  2. Dec 7, 2014
    steve1973

    steve1973 Member

    Nolensville, TN
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    The galvanic corrosion will occur wether you ground the aluminum radiator or not. The aluminum will give electrons to a metal (heater core and the engine block) higher up on the noble chart. The coolant will be the electrolytic solution. To keep it to a minimum make sure your coolant PH is close to 9. Use Prestone global 50/50 or Ford G05.
     
  3. Dec 7, 2014
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

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    Yes, but just like a water heater or boiler in a hydronic system, keeping it electrically isolated does reduce the corrosion without a direct electrical connection between the cathode and anode. If you have the option, I would isolate it. And as above, the electrolyte (water/antifreeze) will also make a difference.
     
  4. Dec 7, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    "Use Prestone global 50/50"

    Premixed 50/50? Why pay for water?
     
  5. Dec 7, 2014
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    i never gave a though to this, but i have seen this process on plumbing where it ate the fasteners. I think this is also the same process that causes new pressure treated lumber to eat steel. The copper in the wood eats nails not hot dipped galvanized in less than 3 years. seen it happen many times
     
  6. Dec 7, 2014
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    The premixed is distilled water, which theoretically would reduce corrosion.
     
  7. Dec 8, 2014
    nwedgar

    nwedgar Now with TBI!

    Newnan, Georgia
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    Thanks for the comments. I installed it without isolating it for now. Ethylene glycol is what the manufacturer of the radiator said to use, so I did, with Valvoline Max LIfe. I mix mine with distilled water so I can control the percentage of mix. The Valvoline has inhibitors in it that should keep the aluminum from wearing prematurely. I always change it out about every other year (~5,000 miles of driving)
     
  8. Dec 8, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    At least around here, the road salt eats radiators from the outside, a lot quicker than any inside corrosion, distilled water or not.
     
  9. Dec 8, 2014
    DrDanteIII

    DrDanteIII Master Procrastinator

    Milford NJ 08848
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    well, if you insulate the radiator and run waterless coolant, you can stop that completely.


    However, with good conventional coolant and proper maintence, a high quality aluminum radiator will last many lifetimes.
     
  10. Dec 8, 2014
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

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    A sacrificial anode can help with the corrosion issues as well. Someone makes radiator caps with one built in. It's been a while so I forget who it was. Maybe Stant.
     
  11. Dec 8, 2014
    steve1973

    steve1973 Member

    Nolensville, TN
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    Galvanic corrosion is pretty easy to duplicate. Take a lemon, stick a piece of copper in and a piece of aluminum in. Run a volt meter across the metals and you will see about .5 bolts. That is the electrons from the aluminum traveling to the copper. The aluminum is being eroded. Same happens in a cooling system wether it is founded or not. The sacrificial anode is a great idea.

    The other issue is PH. Aluminum is happiest with a PH of 7-9. Cast iron is happiest with a ph of 9-12. Old style green conventional coolant has a very high PH and will eat the alumin slowly and seperately from galvanic corrosion. A PH of 9 is optimum and easiest to obtain with a premix product. Water PH varies greatly across the US. Fluoride is good for teeth but not engines
     
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