Building my 66 CJ6 to look capable of things it will never do

sure looks like a great build for doing things it will never do ......

 

Yeah, It might end up doing some things not previously planned. It will definitely be going to Colorado next summer.

 

A couple of years ago we did the mild stuff like Engineers, Cinnamon, Yankee Boy, Imogene, and Ophir in the Ouray area. I wanted to do Black Bear but my wife said she wouldn't go after watching some videos of it on You Tube. We did those in a 2008 Wrangler 4 door. I'm not sure my Cj-6 will turn even as short as that jeep did. May be some 10 point turns!

 

Easy question for some of you, but I really need to know. I have a lot of time and money into my PS setup, my electric fan, steering shaft, power brake system, etc. I'm planning on pulling the 225 this weekend to get the rebuild started and then go back in with it and the T-18 and Dana 20 behind it. BUT, I see I can buy a rebuilt non-smog 3.8 for $990. The questions is, will this engine be the same dimensionally as my 225 so as to clear everything and will my PS pump bracket bolt right up like it does now on the 225 to the 3.8 head? I don't think I can rebuild the 225 for less than that. Pictures of your 3.8 installed?

 

They are sibling engines, so they are the same size, and essentially the same motor. I started with a 225, and after some issues I rebuilt a 1975 231 odd fire. There are some differences, but if you are using the same major engine components you won't notice. I prefer the odd fire for a couple of reasons, the heavy flywheel, and the cool sound, .

These pictures were taken just after I was done with my build. It doesn't look so clean anymore! Michigan mud has left its mark. I see from your post you get up to northern Michigan, if you ever find yourself back up here I would be happy to do some trail riding with that CJ6 you built.

 

Wow! jhuey-that is an incredibly clean and well thought out build! I like.

 

I went ahead and tore down the 225 to see how bad it was. It was fouling the plugs in a bad way-lots of oil on top. I assumed rings would be shot or missing, and I just didn't find anything that jumped out at me other than the rod bearings being really bad. How can you tell if the oil rings are bad??? Also, should there be a tiny ridge in the center of each crank journal between where the two bearings ran, or is that just wear? Probably going to have to be turned. After removing the heads, while rolling the motor over by hand you could see the oil running down the cylinder walls above the pistons....

$990 for a rebuilt exchange 3.8 or $442 for the master kit for this 225 and then have heads checked-new hardened valve seats and guides, crank turned,...what would you do?

 

Well the Rod bearings were definitely shot.........Based on the amount of oil below the oil rings an into the wrist pin area it sure seems the rings are also gone............the only way to check would have been a compression or better yet a leak down check while it was still together............the valve stem seals can also contribute to that over oiling.

I would rebuild the 225 since you already have it.......but I would first mic the crank and see if it will cleanup to an under sized bearing. And like wise you need to check your bore size's versus your Pistons otherwise that could lead to boring to an over-sized piston.............In either case the rebuilt motor more than likely will have an undersized crank and an over-bored block also.

Oiling problems in both the 225 & the 231's are an issue...........on the 225 the oil pump should be rebuilt along with looking closely at the clearance between the oil pump bore cavity , the gears and the timing cover case. That is where the oil pressure is developed between the gear and the cover any wear there or groves will result in poor oil pressure.

I doubt that the re-builders even check it because the rebuilds are never warrantied for very long anyway............The 231 oiling system is a little better than the 225 that gets it's oil via two passages in the block that comes through the head to the rocker stands

Will the re-builder take a 225 in exchange for a 231?

Choices!

 

And now my new concern is that the crank is stamped R20 and M20-meaning rods are .020 under and mains are .020 under already. Someone rebuilt this beast in the past. Will the crank cleanup to .030". Not sure yet. Been too busy to do anything other than tear it the rest of the way down. When it was rebuilt, did they do the hardened valve seats; valve guides; was it just sucking oil through a bad intake gasket???? Plugs were fouling bad...power seemed good...yeah, I should have compression tested it. I spoke to a builder today who discussed how they open up the oil galley from the pickup tube to the oil pump through the block. I want to get it back in the jeep! Part of me want to rebuild this one and part of me says just put a rebuilt exchange in and go. If I knew all the holes would be there in the heads for my brackets it would be easier...decisions decisions

 

The 3 bolt pattern in the front / rear of the 231 heads is identical to the 225 heads.........you can get .030 under main & rod bearings if the crank will clean up , it's no big deal!
Most rebuilds will also be at least .010 under or more when rebuilt.

 

So, the 225 is headed to the rebuilder here locally in Rolla, Mo on Monday. Looks like the crank will clean up at .030 ok on both rods and mains. Didn't measure the bore, but not a big ridge so hopefully it wont need much. I think ring gap was an issue on this motor. Since it has been done once, I'm hoping the heads were updated at that time as well, but they are going along for the ride. Can't wait to get it and the T-18 in the jeep and go for a ride. We installed the front add-a-leafs last night to help out with that winch and stuff up front. Rears will go on Saturday. Even though my springs are 3" Wrangler lift springs, the add-a-leafs took quite a bit of clamping to get the spring to conform-so they will certainly add to the arch. Going to pick up my son's first vehicle tonight. A 2000 Jeep TJ. 4 cyl automatic with hardtop and ac. My first vehicle wasn't that nice! That makes 57 jeeps now.

 

Any guideline or advice for the builder as far as opening up the oil galley in the block from the pickup to the pump? What about oil return holes in the heads?

 

You will probably also need to get the Rods re-sized. Heads will need at least the exhaust seats changed because of the non-lead fuel........or you can run additives. The rocker shafts & rockers should be looked at and do an aftermarket valve guide seal. The old umbrella style just do not last..........the new seals will require the valve guide boss to be machined to accept the seal.

If your builder does not have the tooling to gun drill or root those galleys out best just to clean them out best you can.........The real key is to get a good front cover for that motor that does not have excessive clearance at the pump cavity bore to the oil pump gears...........T.A. Performance in Ariz. has a solution for that.

 

A little progress is being made. Valve covers have been blasted and painted. Engine builder called and said my block and heads were in good condition for a rebuild, and we discussed the options and sources of parts. We have agreed to bore it .050 over to make it a 3.8, as he said those pistons were actually cheaper than oversize 225 pistons. I've been mulling over what else I should get before it comes home. I was looking at a high torque starter. My ring gear is ok but the gear on the starter bendix looks a bit rough. Anyone use those mini high torque starters on a Buick?

 

Bellhousing has been blasted and painted. Oil pan blasted and painted. Going to blast the front cover tonight-thinking about leaving it just blasted aluminum-or should I give it a coat of clear?? Engine is not home yet....pics soon. Putting Lexan rear window in top tonight. Progress has been slow-busy at work and too many meetings. Then there were world series games to watch. Time change makes it dark when I get home. I need to get back on it.

 

While waiting for the engine to come home, I installed a new Lexan window in the rear of the top. I used the same hardware they use on boat covers...there is a window present in that last picture-and it will never be that clean again!

 

Since this thread is about CJ 6 this looks like a great place to ask this question. I am going to purchase a soft top for my CJ 6. The only top that i I find is the bestop which looks good. The advertisement shows the top on a CJ 8. My best knowledge is that the 8 has a 103.5 inch wheelbase and my 6 has a 101 inch wheel base. The bewtop 51306-01 supposedly is perfect fit for both models. Has anyone used this top on a CJ 6?