VIN and rear axel problems for registration.

I finally have my 1965 Cj5 running, after replacing the origional dauntless with a 67 and converting an even fire HEI to odd fire and some other parts and pieces. Now ready for registering. Since I bought it out of state I need to have the VIN verified but the tag is missing off the firewall. I found the serial number on the frame and the numbers match exactly with the title except for the 8305 first 4 digits are on the title but not on the frame and the numbers on the frame start with an A. In Ct vin verification is done at emission testing centers and none will approve it without all numbers matching exactly as on the title. Are all these vehicles missing the first four numbers on the frame? They tell me I have to take it to wethersfield which is over an hour away by highway. Now for the second problem, my first road test with the temp plates I notice a vibrating sound in the drivetrain when letting off the gas pedal and coasting in gear. I jacked it up in the garage and the wheels and driveshaft can be turned easily in reverse with no noise, and the driveshaft can be turned easily in forward with no noise, but when I try to turn the wheels in forward it is hard to turn and makes noise. I also notice it is now leaking gear oil out where the driveshaft connects. I only have a 10 day temp registration to get this done. I am not sure if I should risk severe damage driving almost 3 hours there and back or if this could be an easy fix or if the emission place can be convinced the numbers are correct. Any advice will be greatly appreciated, Thanks

 

make sure it is not in 4wd. it could be the pinion bearing on the way out. your talking about the rear driveshaft right? i believe my frame has all the numbers on there but it's been a while since i looked.

 

Only the sequential part of the serial number (the last part) is stamped into the frame AFAIK. Not sure how to convince the emissions center of this ...

I assume you are referring to the rear axle? Does not sound good. Take the differential cover off and take a look.

 

Google search vin tags and find the company in Europe that makes exact repops of the vin tags. Put the exact number that is on the title. Screw to firewall with 4 screws. Done. Never offer anymore information to a government agency then they specifically ask for and try to never argue. The frames only had the sequential numbers and it is very common for them to be off by several numbers as a problem on the assembly line could easily mix up the frames and tubs.

 

I would haul it.

 

I believe 8305 is the model number. All early cj5s start with 8305. 83 is jeep universal CJ5 and 05 is open body. The balance of the number on the tag (and the frame) is unique to the vehicle.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/VIN-jeep-cj-1955-1971.htm

 

83xx numbers didn't start until '62 or '64. Before that it was 57548 for the CJ5 then sequential numbers.

Take it to the State Patrol. They are the ones who issue new number plates.

Emissions just checks the numbers. And they have a Masters (I believe that's the name) Manual that lists locations for VIN #'s, and locations for all the equipement needed for smog control - which you have to have on the vehicle in operating condition. And any leaks will fail it. Any holes in the exhaust will fail it.

Unless you are lucky and your state doesn't require emissions for vehicles over 20 years old.

 

I just had mine inspected by Washington state patrol for much the same reason. I had the firewall tag with the complete serial number and only the sequential number will be stamped on the frame section. Since your tag is missing I don't know how you would proceed in your state, but I can tell you only the 5 last digits will be on the frame.

 

Yep.

The rear axle noise is a classic symptom of bad pinion bearings which are no doubt also the cause of the leak. Seals don't much care for shafts that have movement other than rotational.

 

I removed the driveshaft and the nut for the yoke was finger tight. I removed the yoke by just pulling by hand and the pinion has some play in it. Can I replace the bearing, race and seal from the front of the differential or do I need to remove the rear cover and gears.

 

there are two bearings and yes they come out the back.

 

Just finished the rear end. The bearings were good and actually looked new, and the pinion was shimmed correctly. The problem was the yoke nut was too loose and the pinion was creeping back and slightly touching the carrier on coasting. I replaced the seal and put back together and now all is fine with that problem. Now onto motor vehicle for a vin verification.

 

Here is the link for Data plates.
I got one for my 49 CJ3a.

He can stamp your numbers on it for a small charge. also has the correct screws

http://rdrnl.home.xs4all.nl/4UWPIntro2.html

Real nice guy.


Andrew
the compressor guy

 

Thanks 1970cj6. I am taking it to DMV tomorrow and I anticipate no problems with the vin verification as the stamped numbers on the frame are clearly visible and match the vin on the title with exception to the first 4 digits 8304 not being on the frame. But I still want the data plate which will save a lot of trouble in the future. Thanks again for the link to that site.

 

Success, went to DMV yesterday and waited in the information line for over an hour then to the inspection line. The inspector checked the number on the frame, then ran a stolen vehicle search. He issued me the origional vin, went to the front of the line for a number and waited another hour to pay and get my permanent plates. I had a choice of regular plates or classic vehicle plates and took the latter and the letters and numbers are the exact reverse order of the temp plate. What are the odds of that?

 

Congratulations. I guess the DMV folks aren't so bad after all...

 

Wasn't DMV that he had a problem with. It was the Emissions place.

 

• I have a 1965 CJ-5 with an F head 134, T90, D18, Dana 27 up front and a Dana 44 (4.27 gear ratios) with tapered axles in the rear. I have just started noticing a growl or bearing/gear whine in the rear differential when I decelerate (this is happening in 2WD with front hubs unlocked). It makes the noise in all gears (1st, 2nd or 3rd) and even when decelerating in neutral. No noise when accelerating. I am throwing a little bit of gear lube out of the rear pinion seal. The Jeep had about 38,000 miles on it when I got in in December of 2014. It had sat in a barn for 17 years. I changed all the fluids and they all looked pretty good when I drained them (not low or full of water). I have put about 5,000 miles on the Jeep since I got it running on 2015. Just checked the rear differential fluid today and it is full and clean. I flat tow it back and forth from the San Francisco Bay Area to the Tahoe area once a year. I remove the rear driveshaft and unlock the front hubs when towing, but that rear differential is still spinning at freeway speeds...

How shall I proceed to track down the source/cause of the noise?

Thanks in advance for any help that you might offer!

Bob

 

I'm guessing you have the same problem as chipdom above. Pull the driveshaft from the rear yoke and check for play. When the pinion bearings are loose, it lets the pinion move to the rear on deceleration. If the bearings are bad enough, the pinion slides all the way back until its teeth are digging into the carrier.

 

Thanks Duffer. I'll dig in to it and let you know what I find. Thanks for the quick response.

Bob