Tall, Skinny tire recommendations

Yes, I tried to tow it w/o the steering wheel tied at first, but that was even worse. The front tires would not turn back to straight after making a 90 degree turn, basically grinding me to a halt. Once, they just turned on their own to the left all of a sudden while going straight - made for a real scary jackknife attempt - luckily I was going very slow. That's when I tried to tie the steering wheel, but that didn't work that well, either.

 

That's not so good... Sounds like there wasn't enough caster in it

 

sounds like more air in tires would help too. Put in maximum psi listed on side wall on ALL wheels on ground.

 

I bought this 3a on a 5 frame with a odd fire in it..the PO put 33x14.50 swampers on it and yes they rub on the leaf springs...I guess the question now is.....How wide is too wide? How tall is too tall..?

spring over/ stock axles...

I am thinking 31x10.50 or 12.50, but alot of times trail runs are posted as minimum 33" tires.....

33" will max out my 3.73/1 axles....right?, but a 31" and 3.73/1 would work?

what about 33" with 5.38/1 is that better?

RI0

 

I have spring over with 34x10.50 they rub a little. I'm just to lazy to adjust the stops. I feel it's a good tire size with my 5:38's and overdrive. Cruises good on the fwy. and has plenty down low with the SM465.

 

I think some Gladiators came with 16x6 rims.

 

Might try a set of Buckshot Mudders. They come in P and Q(tall and taller). Very common out here in the West. Excellent mud tires and and wear fairly well. However, as with all tall sidewall tires, they can get a bit squirrely.

 

There are many factors to consider when deciding on a tire. Mud? Rocks? Sand? Dirt? Pavement? Snow? How much clearance do you need/have? How fast do you want to go? And many more.

The Dana 25/27 axle breaks with 235/75R15's and a V-6 so anything over that and you are asking for troubles. Of course I've run 33's and a small V-8 with the D27 with no problems, but I babied it off road.

I'd love to have a set of 33-14.50 or 33-15.50 tires on my Jeep... make a great dunebuggy out of it. After more than 35 years of Jeeping I am still trying to figure out the appeal of tall skinny tires. I've run skinny, fat, tall, short in every combination and for all around I've found the 33X12.50 to work best. The skinny tires I had were lousy for traction and handled like a model T. Height is more for clearance or gearing. But look at the dragstrip someday... are they all running 4 inch wide tires??? no... they run as wide as possible for more traction.

 

jeepnut i beg to differ the 27 is a good axle. a buddy of mine runs one with the limited slip and 34in tires with a v-6 and he does not snap axle shafts. it is all in how you treat your rig.

edit: oh yeh and he plays with the 37+ in tire rigs out on the rocks.

 

Your experience of breaking Dana 25/27 axles on 235/75R15 sized tires (albeit with a V6) is the main reason I want to go with a skinny tire - to keep down on weight in the hopes of preventing the stock Dana 25 axle from breaking. My CJ2A has the stock D25 front, stock D41 rear, stock transmission and 4 cylinder engine. I don't have the money right now to replace any of the stock drivetrain - all I have is the money to replace the balding tires that are on it right now.

The previous owner did a spring-over-axle (SOA) conversion using CJ5 springs and driveshafts that lifted it too high in my opinion. It also came with balding 31x10.50 mud terrains and 15x7 aftermarket steel rims. Given the added ride height from the SOA, I figured at first that I could easily fit 33x12.50 sized tires. But after doing some research, I learned that the stock Dana 25 axle is just not strong enough to handle that big of a tire. So then I was thinking of going with 33x10.50's or 32x9.50 sized tires (skinnier and lighter, but still have enough of a diameter to go over off-road obstacles and easily clear the PO's SOA lift). Then I found that they also make a smaller 31x9.50 swamper TSL radial. I think the 33x10.50's might be pushing the limits of the stock Dana 25. Just to be on the safe side, I'm leaning much more towards the 31x9.50 sized tires (rather than the 32x9.50 or 31x10.50 tires) in the hopes they'll help keep the weight down and prevent breaking the D25, despite the fact that the SOA lift is so high that they may look puny (I'm also considering swapping back to spring-under-axle). Anyone have any additional thoughts on axle stress placed by 32x9.50, 31x10.50 or 31x9.50 tires with a stock 4 cylinder? Or should I keep saving more until I can afford to buy original-style, skinny 16" rims and NDT military-style tires?

One other thing - is it the weight of the tire/rim combo that results in axle breakage, or the bigger diameter and added width of the tire, or a combination of all of that? I realize the bigger diameter affects the gear ratio. I also realize a wider tire is harder to turn than a skinnier one, although a wider tire is also more beneficial off-road like Jeepnut said. If it's just the weight that affects the added stress on axles, then theoretically a bigger tire on a lighter alloy rim should have no more adverse effect than the stock-sized tire on the heavier, original rim (if they both weigh the same), right? My uneducated guess tells me, though, that it's a combination of weight, diameter and width, and that weight plays a big part in axle breakage - anyone have any additional thoughts and experience?

 

If you are concerned about weight, a Swamper should not be a tire high on your list. My 235/85/16 (~32x9.3) TrXus MT's weigh a ton. I don't have exact numbers, but I would bet they weigh quite a bit more than other AT's or MT's. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

 

I didn't realize a Swamper weighs more than other mud terrains. Thanks, that's good info to know.

 

My Swamper LTB's on steel rims weigh a ton. I wouldn't be surprised if they weigh at least 75 to 100 pounds each.
Mine are 34x10.50-15 on 8.5 wide steel spokes.

 

ed your question about heavy tire on light rim... you still would have a problem just not quite as bad of one. when you put weight further out it takes more physical force to move the object, even if it is the same weight.

 

Excellent point, Jeff. I hadn't even thought of an aftermarket rim possibly having less backspacing, therefore sticking out more and placing added stress when compared to a stock rim with stock (more) backspacing.

Either way, I did a quick search for an aftermarket 15x6 aluminum alloy with 5" on 5.5" and couldn't find anything anyway. All I found are a few steel 15x6 rims. My CJ2A already came with 15x7 aftermarket steelies, but I'm seriously considering saving up for the stock, skinny 16" rims and skinny NDT military-style tires just to play it safe. The only concern I have with the NDT military-style tires is that they're probably not as good on a wet street as the newer, mud terrain radials they have nowadays. Maybe I'll just go with the skinny, stock 16" rims and put some 31s on them?

Thanks for all the helpful info, fellas.

 

I was under the impression that larger/wider tires, not only add stress to axles because of the weight, diameter and width, but also due to the added traction that they create. Add to that mix someone who might drive a little "destructivley" and sure they'll break.... I just pulled a t86 out of my jeep that was nuked, I'm not saying that the 33x14.50 tires that the PO was running pushed the button, but I feel that the tires and his general abuse most likley did that tranny wrong.

point...axles didn't break, something else gave. needless to say I'm going to run a set of 31x10.50 or 12.50.

Rio