Brake Light Switch

I can't keep my hydraulic brake light switch working. I think the wiring is good because they light if I jump the terminals and the turn signals work fine. I am thinking of putting a mechanical switch on the brake pedal. Has anyone had any luck with this. 1961 CJ5.

 

What problem are you having with the switch?

 

I have the same problem. The switch on the hydraulic circuit is a little bit slow but it works. So I made a contact switch directly on the pedal. It is not yet connected but it works, when I'll press the pedal a part will act on a switch working in parallel with the hydraulic switch.

I could probably change the hydraulic switch but I don't like working with the dot4. SO I soon that I press the brake pedal, lights will work.
2 securities better than 1 concerning the brake lights.

 

inline brake light switches require pressure to operate . I believe single master cylinders only have one pressure switch mounted on front of master cylinder . is brake pedal firm(hard) if so . then maybe the little hole on switch is plugged up with rust or trash ( rubber compound) . I would buy another switch and give it a try . sounds like you have power before and after switch

 

So why go mechanical? Swap out the hydraulic switch...

 

My shift tower didn't have provisions for the hydraulic switch, so when i updated my master cylinder - i ended up using one from an early Ford pickup. I can dig up the part number and url for where I got it, if you'd like.. It was kind of a pain to mount correctly. If I had to do it all over again, i'd drill and tap my shift tower.

 

Thanks for the replies. It is / was a brand new hydraulic switch. I did put in a mechanical switch from gearhead world and it works fine. Brake lights come on every time.

 

Glad you got it working. I think ggreenwood37 has it confused with back-up switch. Hydraulic brake switch has nothing to do with transmission shifting.

 

"It is / was a brand new hydraulic switch"

New is always suspect in my book. Return the part for an exchange.

 

Where did you source the part? What is the PN?

Rock Auto shows a Standard SLS25 for that application. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=44649&cc=1490155 Standard is a good brand - your independent parts stores will almost always carry Standard, and if they don't have the part should be able to get it from a local warehouse in a day or less.

Don't get a SLS25T if the store offers that - that's Standard's "economy" line.

 

I had the same problem with my 71. found out it was bad wiring in the pig tail. swapped it out with a new one it works fine.It was on the rack at Oreillys..

 

Grunt, do you remember the pigtail part number?

 

No , but its very common. I am sure any counter "person" could help you match it up to your sw.

 

It does not make any sense to me to try another hydraulic switch. It worked for a while, then stopped. All the time I could jump it and the lights worked. Now with the mechanical switch the brakes work every time and it does not take that much pedal movement or pressure to activate the lights. And yes I have a very firm brake pedal (and it holds firm) as the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and shoes are all new. But thanks for the replies.

 

"It does not make any sense to me to try another hydraulic switch."

Your choice. But in my experience the more things you can keep stock, the fewer new complications are introduced. Future problems are easier to diagnose and fix, and parts will be easier to identify and locate.

A hydraulic switch is about the most basic and reliable part as you can find on a vehicle.

 

Interesting thread. This weekend at a Jeep off road run several people mentioned converting TO a hydraulic switch because of the mechanical switches sticking on and causing problems. I've very seldom had any issues with my hydraulic switches and they are not affected by dirt build up, the brake pedal bouncing around off road (seen one break because of this), etc. If you periodically flush the hydraulic system to get rid of the moisture they are very dependable (assuming a quality unit is used and not the cheapest-made-overseas unit you can find).

 

My hydraulic swith has worked for over 28 years on the 3B I don't see a problem. I did have to change the switch on the commando however. A $3.50 part

 

My switch is 48 years and still works every time and no leaks. Just can't get more reliable than that.

 

57 years here and counting.

 

Yep, the brake switch on my '53 Buick still works fine. And the funky start system still works too, turn on the ignition switch, step on the gas pedal, statrer engages...Hopefully the motor starts.