Barn Find!

Tim,
I have a Powr-Lok for a D44. Can I get 30 spline side gears for a Powr-Lok and install it in the flanged 44 axle?

Don

 

I don't know - I think so. Nick or Jim might know, or call R&P or Randy's (for example) and ask.

 

OK, that is good news that I can convert a 19 spline Powr-Lok to 30 spline.

Now to decide whether to do this which means buying side gears and new side bearings and then setting up the shimming for the backlash and preload, or just putting new clutches in the Trac-Loc.

Opinions anybody? Which is the better differential, Powr-Loc or Trac-Loc?

Don

 

Great Jeep,

I just bought a 1970 myself, those dash pix are a great help as I am trying to get mine back to stock. As I am "Newbie" what is that button at 2 O'clock from the ignition (upper right) Starter? Horn? is that Stock??

 

OK, I haven't read the whole thread....but did you name it Buttercup by any chance? Looks like a good'un!

 

LXXXV,
That button is in fact a cigar lighter. I don't think it is factory stock, but it may have been dealer installed because I've seen pictures of others cigar lighters installed in the same location.
Rondog,
I was going to name it 'Old Yeller' but my wife has christened it 'Bumblebee' after I put a black top and seats on it. That white Whitco top is just to weathered to use any longer.

I never have gotten any opinions about Trac-Loc vs Powr-Loc. Anybody?

Don

 

A Powr-Lock is considered superior. Much stronger, more aggressive with the default setup, can be set up smooth or aggressive. Period Trac-Locks break spider gears and wear out quickly.

Randy's has a page about the various LSDs. http://www.ringpinion.com/ContentFr...cking_Differentials,_Spools_&_Mini-Spools.inc

 

Don,

What a great find. It looks like you are ready for next years Rubicon run, provided it happens.

I would question putting the time and money into changing from the trac-lock to a power-lock. If you see yourself running the con regularly, I would just save my money until I could afford full-case locker (preferable selectable). This way you will be getting the most out of that 30-spline, flanged D44! Or, if you see yourself using the jeep mostly around town and on less demanding trails, I would just keep the trac-lock. You seem like a seasoned 4x'er, so you likely know how to get the most out of a limited-slip differential by modulating the brakes and without breakage. However, I will say this: if your are set on a LSD, I much prefer the power-lock over the Trac-lock. Good luck!

 

:iagree:

 

Good find. My 1970 I purchased for 2K last winter. But mine, not so clean for a Nor Cal Jeep. Good luck with your build.

 

X2 great find:drool:

 

What a find! And a great price, too. Lucky dog.

 

Those are stock seats for the Oct69 build. Same as the ones in mine (that I rebuilt wrong).
I have not seen a smog pump since I bought mine and put it in a box with the other parts that were removed, in 1975ish.
I sort of have flashes of memories of the washer bag, very faint.

How is the single stick shifting? The design of that linkage is weak.

Why did you change the wheels? What did you do with the wheels?
did you redo the seats or get new ones?

very nice.

 

Y'all realize this is a two year old thread, don't you?

 

You realize that 2010 was over 3 years ago, right?

Oh, nice jeep!

 

Wow, a resurrected thread!
Fast forward 3 years...
I've had it on 3 'Con trips with the ECJ5 crew. Various carnage, 2 radiators, exhaust system, frame cracks near the spring shackles, all stuff to be expected (well not the radiator damage). The Trak-Lok is pretty much useless so I drive it like it has open diffs. The trick of pre-loading torque by holding the brakes to engage the LS clutches only works with a Powr-Lok.

I put in a Herm rebuilt T14, D18 and Warn OD after about a year, and last week the D18 started making a noise that I am pretty sure is the output shaft bearing. Yesterday I got the OD out and put the stock output gear back in, and it still makes the noise. I had a hard time removing the sheet metal lock for the special nut holding the OD planetary unit on the T14 output shaft. It was bound in place and once I finally got it out I find the nut was no longer tight. I was sure I had torqued that nut good. These things WILL loosen up and the sheet metal keeper was the only thing stopping it from backing all the way off.

Overall it's been a great Jeep.

I notice no one has started a '14 Rubicon thread. I'll be up for it again. I also am planning a trip across the Mojave road trail in April. Any So Cal guys up for this? I would really rather not run this alone. It will be the week starting 4/14.

Don

 

Wow Don!
After all this time, I can't believe I've never seen this thread!
She's come a long way, hasn't she?

 

I use a bungee cord on my '75 CJ5 304 to keep it from popping out of 4 low.