center floor section

Does anyone know where I can get a center floor section for my ECJ5 rebuild? This picture is taken from the bottom and I'm not sure I can repair it.
Thanks,
Tommy

 

If you search the forum, it's been covered ad nasuem.

Some like to go as far as creating a new floor from sheet metal, while some prefer to source replacement sections.

Classic Enterprises should have it.

 

Classic Enterprises does not show the center or"hump section.

 

Are you talking about the driver floor, passenger floor and transmission tunnel? I'm having troubling orienting what I'm looking at in your picture.

 

Have you called CE and asked them if they have it? I'm sure they have complete floors, if that's what you need. MD Juan also sells replacement panels, through various distributors. A better picture would be ... better.

If you need the bolt-in part of the floor, apparently that can vary from year to year. Good pictures of the panel from the top will help with your search.

 

Maybe this is a little clearer picture.

 

I have a brand new floor pan sitting in my garage and want to sell it - just have not gotten around to listing it yet. Problem is the thing is heavy and huge so not sure shipping would work

 

I would love to buy the entire floor but with duck season opening in 9 days and two malfunctioning shotguns money is very tight.

I have a sheet of 18ga. to rebuild the driver and passenger side floors but did not plan on having to re-do the center section.

It looks like I'm going to have to make a run at making a center section. A pattern would be very helpful.

Bob, I'll send you a PM.

 

I don't think that anyone makes the center hump piece. I recently went through the same situation with mine although mine was nowhere near as bad as yours. Mine only had pitting. I saw one at a local swap meet for $80 earlier this year and It sold. and I saw a couple m38a1 NOS ones on ebay few months back I believe price was $275 when they sold. I almost one them but someone jumped the bid last second.

I think you will just have to repair yours for now with sheetmetal and keep searching for a better one down the road.

 

Does it have holes or is it just pitted?

If it's just pitted, or has small holes, spot blast it, weld up the holes and skim over the pits. You have an air compressor? Get one of the hand-help blasters and a tub of aluminum oxide and go to it. http://www.tptools.com/Siphon-Fed-Speed-Blaster,448.html?b=s*hand+held+blaster

 

I would not make a complete center section. Instead, I would use the existing hump to make cardboard patterns of only the sections that are rusted through. Then I would make those sections, and use the new sections as patterns for what material to remove. It looks like the compound curves in the hump are fairly intact, and only that edge is really rotted. I would make little patches and fix it. Then weld in the flat floors. Hammer forming parts like that is not difficult.

 

This thing has serious rust-thru. Not much to weld to. I have a large compressor and tank type sand blaster but I think this piece requires a replacement piece.

 

Here is what I started with



I then made a rough template



Transferred the template to sheet metal



And then tried my hand at welding




It was my first fabrication project. Didn't come out too bad.

 

Good work. The bends look nice and straight - hard to do that without some kind of brake. You can improvise something, but a real brake works best.

Next time, shirt cardboard works better for pattern making.

 

Thanks timgr!

Yeah, I have a harbor freight metal brake. Had to beef it up a bit to handle thicker sheet - but it gets the job done. My pattern making skills have improved since this part of the project. If I can do a project like this, anyone can.

 

That is good work ggreenwood37. Mine is basicily gone under the tool box.
I have the metal so i may give it a shot. I will try and post some pictures as I get into it.
Tommy

 

I have done repairs piecemeal like this, and in some cases flame-brazing works well, especially on fragile metal. Plus while the metal is at red heat, it can be easily hammer-formed into the tough curves and corners