requirements to make removing rear drums easier?

I just bought a dana 41 with locker to replace my shot dana 41 and wanted to know if I can put different brake pieces on it to make so I wont need hub puller to check brakes. My new 41 looks to have been converted to 11 inch brakes but I only have backing plate and hub which I assume is from a dana 44.

do I just buy new dana 44 style drums use the hub that came with new axle and my old shoes I already had? Or do I need more to accomplish this?

 

Typically you would just replace the wheels studs that are pressed into the hub.
Your 11" drum would then mount over the shorter shoulder wheel studs ( no swadging required).
I would think if your sourced front/rear wheel studs for 72-75 CJ5 would fit the bill.
Any stud that the shoulder does not protrude thru the hub and interfere with the drum would likely work if I recall.

 

Two ways to go. Replace the studs like Jpflat2a said which is a good way to go. Then you know what you have as far as condition and what not. Other way if the studs have a shoulder is to open up the stud holes in the drum with a unibit. Easy and quick if you are not already replacing the studs.


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I guess I forgot to add a key piece of information or I just poorly worded my question. I WOULD do the 11 inch brake on rear but I don't want to have bigger brakes in rear than whats on the front. and I want to keep this jeep mostly stock aka no lift and factory size tires. So I am going back to 9 inch drums on rear and want to know how to make drum removal easy like the 19 spline dana 44 has on my cj5. I don't want to use hub puller every time I check my brakes.

So on my new dana 41 that had been converted to 11 inch brakes, I want to remove the 11 backing plate and replace it with a 9 inch backing plate off my junk 41 and use its 9 inch shoes also but I don't know what it is that makes it require a hub puller for drum removal. is the drum pressed onto the hub or onto the studs? so to make drum hold on with a couple small screws like my 59 cj5 what needs replaced? do I keep my dana 41 hub and just buy a dana 44 drum and drill/tap holes for the small screws holding drum on? or do I have to replace both drum and hub with dana 44 parts?

I hope I am describing things right I have no real mechanical experience never went to school for it and no one taught me. I just like to tinker and fix my own stuff usually with aid of manuals. I kinda have a thing for old simple iconic vehicles like the old jeeps (mostly 40's into early 60's) that are easy to recognize but aren't as common as people with their old mustangs and Camaros at car shows. I don't like to attend car shows or parades really, I drive my jeeps as mostly original daily drivers and still off road them like they were meant to be. its fun to show up those high dollar jeeps that have lots of power with my cheap stock jeep.

 

Yep, we call that project creep. You can use 11'' brakes and still keep the jeep looking stock. But, that does extend the project. Oh, and more brakes, the better if you can schwing it...
Oh, and with those tapered axles, I hear it's best to keep the hubs and axles together. What I mean is, don't mix them around, they tend to hold together (Not slip and break keys) as much if you keep them in their original pairings.
Can anyone verify that? Makes some sense, but could be fold lore too.

 

1941 -1953 CJ's use early type 9" Bendix brakes.
1953 -1971 CJ's use late type 9" Bendix brakes.
1965 -1971 CJ's with D-225 use 10" Wagner brakes.

All rear CJ hubs for use with tapered type axles are identicle except that 1953-1971 tapered hubs are tapped with
qty. (3) 1/4" NC screw threads to fasten the late type 9" Bendix brake drums.
1965 -1971 hubs used with 10" Wagner brakes were not tapped for drum mounting.

All standard CJ's 1941 -1971 used 9" Kelsey Hayes (KH) brake drums.
There are two types of 9" Bendix brake drums.
Early (1941 -1953) and late (1953 -1971)
1941 -1953 9" KH drums are mounted inboard of the hub flange.
1953 -1971 9" KH drums are mounted outboard of the hub flange.
Early 9" Bendix brakes require hub removal from the axle assembly to access the wheel brakes.
Late 9" Bendix brakes do not require hub removal from the axle assembly to access the wheel brakes.

To remove early type brake drums from hub; spray the lug studs with penetrating oil.
Then press or drive the lug studs out.

All lug studs have a serrated collar to prevent the stud from spinning when lug nuts are fitted.
There are two lengths of serrated lug stud collars used with 9" Bendix brakes.
The early 9" Bendix stud collar is about 1/16" longer than the late 9" Bendix stud collar because it passes through the drum wall.
CJ's with 10" Wagner brakes also used a longer stud collar.

The serrated stud collars do not interfere with the 9" KH drum lug stud holes.
The serrated stud collars are swaged into the 10" Wagner drums.

The stud collar is not required to position the drum onto the hub.
There is a raised circle on rear hub flange that is used to position all external mounted drums.
The raised circle is approximately 4" diameter.
All front drums are fitted over that same hub dimension, thereby the front and rear drums are identicle.
The 3 countersink screws are not required to position the 9" KH drum to the hub.

Late type 9" KH drums can be used with early type 9" Bendix backing plate assemblies.
It's been a while since I mounted late type drums onto an early Bendix system.
As you know there is an outer ridge / band that encircles the brake drum.
If I recall correctly the late drum on an early backing plate will have a slightly greater gap between the plate and drum ridge.
There is no late type drum ridge interference with the early type backing plate.
They fit and function perfectly well.

The late type 9" Bendix brakes are no better nor are they any worse than the early type 9" Bendix brakes.
They are only different.
The late type are much easier to service and should be considered as an upgrade over that of the early type.
The early type has one advantage over the late type.
The advantage is the ability to custom adjust each individual shoe for specific wear.

 

Awesome answer Oldtimer... I'll have to dig this up when I research the drum scuffing my backing plates... Most of the hardware is from CJ3a donor, but then it was all swapped onto my 44mb... You can imagine the possibilities?
I've also noticed a "spacer" between the axles inside the diff, that might also be where the clearance problem is hiding?

 

Art,
I suppose you should start your own post on that.
I'll try to address your concerns if I see your post.
ECJ5 is my favorite diversion from the CJ-3B B.B.
I focuss most of my effort onto the CJ-3B B.B.

 

Wow. there is some great info in these posts, thanks all

 

Will do, sorry about the highjacking. It's going to be a couple of months from now I reckon, but it'll happen eventually.

 

I would leave the 11 inch brakes and put a valve in to force the front brakes to stop stronger. Less trouble and when and if you get 11 inches for the front you just change the pressure to the rear or remove the valve..

That is my thought on it

My daily driver has 11 inches on the back and 9 inches on the front. It stops fine. I have the 11 inches for the front but will not swap them until I get my Saginaw steering setup complete. Having them like I have mine would be dangerous without the valve though because the 11 inch drums stop way faster, there is no comparison. The Jeep would end around for sure, but with the valve you don't even know the difference