lead additve in f134 ?

hey so I was wondering if I should put lead additive in my f134 im certain that the valves are not designed for un leaded gas any recommendations.

 

Just for exercise it would not be a bad Idea...............although with such low compression the chances of creating enough heat and detonation to harm the seats would be a reach...........but if the valve job is in good order do it!

 

I do it when it comes in my mind. It cannot be negative.
I tested on my "briggs & stratton" engines, it seems to work better.
On the Jeep I don't see the difference. But there is certainy something to do.

 

Over the last decade there has not seemed to be any major complaints about valve wear issues arising from lead free gas in older vehicles. And the octane rating is not an issue in Jeeps.

That said, hardened valve seats can be installed during a rebuild if your engine does not have them.

 

so it sounds like I should put some in a few times a month then ?

 

Or not. I run mine without it. No problems.

 

I used to. Not any more. No problems noted.

 

Thanks that makes things cheaper to also I know those vavels are tough because on my other engine you could see where the piston was broke from hitting the valve but the valve was fine

 

You might want to run the high octane gas, I heard that it does not have alcohol in it. Call the distributor to make sure.

 

Depends on the vendor and location whether high octane has alcohol or not. In my area you have to buy non ethanol fuel special as all grades have it.

To the OP (Original Poster),
I've covered this many times (might do a search, lots if reading ) but modern fuels have additives making lead additive unnecessary unless you have a muscle car with super high compression. Otherwise unnecessary. If it makes you warm and fuzzy inside then go ahead. It won't hurt anything but your pocket book.
Plus with the ethanol fuel currently available combustion chamber temps are lower than with non alcohol fuels. If you have an issue there was one already.


Sent from my iPhone

 

well I guess im fine then im pretty sure gas in California is ethanol based anyway

 

you really dont notice seat damage . You just get a slow erosion of the seats that throws off the valve adjustment and so giving you less power over time. Check your valve lash once every 5 years or so and you should be fine. More importantly is the valve guides. Modern gas doesnt have the lubricating properties like the old gas so it cleans the oil right off of the valve guides and when left to sit it just gunks them up. You can add a bit of atf or marvel mystery oil to the gas or even some 2 stroke mix. any of those would be just as benefitial as a lead additive. helps keep your carb and cylenders in good condition too. Thats my recommendation anyway. I think Leno mentioned using atf aswell

 

This discussion has been had before and I'm sure if you search you can find it. What it boils down to is you don't need to do anything, your engine and valves will be fine.

 

I would NOT add a lead additive -- it is a waste of money.

The f-134 is a derivative engine -- from an engine that was designed to run on lead-free gas way back before lead was an additive.

So it has the hardened seats in it already and there is no and was no need for lead in that engine.

Regarding premium gasoline -- that is useful for higher compression engines and has a higher flash point since the higher the compression the higher the temperature of the gas/air mixture -- therefore for a high compression engine you want a mixture that isn't a flammable so that it will withstand the higher temperature without diesling. In our engines it doesn't do anything for us.

If you want to put in an additive, you'd be better off running oil with the ZDDP additive or lots of ZDDP in it to accomodate the valves. Most oils today have little or no ZDDP in them which is critical for the cam / lifter / valve relationship on our old engines. It's a long story, but the "cliff notes" version is that older engines with the old style cam shafts and flat faced lifters need that ZDDP to reduce /prevent wear. Newer engines don't require very much ZDDP since the cam /valve face is a roller type, and the ZDDP wreaks havoc with catalytic converters. OUr jeep engines don't have the converter, but they do have the flat faced lifters so the more ZDDP the better!

I use Valvoline VR1 racing oil in my jeeps. I don't race them, and VR1 is not supposed to be used for "on road" vehicles -- however that is only because of the catylitic converter problem on the newer engines... Since that isn't a problem on the F-134 there aint no reason to worry..

 

Was at a seminar and the speaker mention that high octane gas usual does not contain alcohol. You need to check with the supplier. The reason he was staying away from the alcohol, was the problems it causes with rubber hose, o-rings etc.

Steve

 

Thankfully, some "ethanol resistant" fuel line and such is now available. The hardware store stuff wouldn't even last one season.

Another problem is "phase separation" of moisture in the ethanol, and the ruination of many small engines when the carbs and tanks get all corroded and gunked up. Chainsaw dealers etc. now sell ethanol-free fuel - at a huge price.

In my experience older vehicles (jeeps) seem much less susceptible. But I now use a dab of Seafoam additive when I can. Seems very effective.

 

x2 on seafoam

 

I’ve been into a few cylinder heads now that both used and didn’t use lead additive and have found no difference.
If you’re worried about ethanol in your gas read the pump carefully, it should be marked as to whether it’s an ethanol mix or not. And before anyone asks no the gas station cannot mix them, distribute ethanol mix as non-ethanol or visa versa. Doing so is against federal regulations and will get a station shut down yesterday if reported.

 

Thanks for all the advice I will probably run standard gasoline and hope for the best