Bent wheel bearing race

In my newb genius, I left the wheel bearing in the hub/rotor while putting the new rotors on, and the outer one fell out and got bent on the garage floor. Movement seems to be good to go...but I'm assuming it needs to be replaced anyway? (Damn thing is brand new).

 

It's O.K.
Just thoroughly clean it and straighten the roller cage back out.

 

Yes I would replace it, that is omething you do not want to lock up at 50 MPH.

Andrew

 

I tried to straighten the cage...I couldn't get it back to its original perfect shape.

 

Cages don't directly effect the roller to cone funtion unless they become severely mis-alighned.
They are generally straightenable with vise grips or pliers if not severely damaged.
IMHO bearing cage perfection is not so important as long as the cage does not mis-alighn the roller to the cone.
I'd be far more worried about possible dirt/ grit in the bearing lube.

 

If the cage rubs on the rollers you will end up with metal particles in the hub. Not good. The other thing I've seen happen is a bent cage can act as a scraper removing the grease from the roller as the assembly rotates. The cage also helps keep the rollers in alignment. If they aren't then they can turn slightly "sideways" and drag along instead of rotate freely. IMHO it's cheap insurance to replace it.


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A dropped bearing is a damaged bearing, I'd replace it.

 

While in a theoretical binary sense it is now "damaged, in perfect condition that bearing would carry a Mack truck a million miles.

The bent cage as seen in your picture would not concern me at all in the real analog world of an antique jeep.

 

Just for the sake of getting everyone on the same page....
A roller bearing assembly commonly consists of the cone, the rollers, the cage and the cup.
The roller cage is not a race.
The race is another term used to identify the bearing cup.

The cage's sole function is to space the rollers evenly around the cone.
Thereby the rollers are not allowed to bump against one another and wipe the grease off from one another.
The rollers are intended to minimally rub against the cage.
Cage to roller contact is exactly what provides the desired spacing.
That is why some, mostly ball type cages are now made of nylon.

In the pic posted we can only see the end veiw of the damaged cage.
The straight edge portion of cage that seperates the rollers from one another must be straight and unbent.

On several occassion I have dissassembled various cone roller assemblies and have replaced the cages with perfect success.
IMHO the jeep will always function as long as the parts are servicable.

 

bearing is cheap enough. and i'm dutch.

 

If one visually inspects the bearing for servicable condition I see no chance nor any risk involved.
One must know what to look for (See: bearing failure analysis) and then one mearly places their trust in what they observe.
I for one have never ever seen a wheel bearing go out unexpectedly.
Generally it's a slow death with ample audio warning for wheel bearings.
They simply do not explode for no know reason.
To some degree all vehicles opertate on used parts.

Of course this is just my opinion and my way.
So here's to freedom of choice and to each his own !

 

well said ken...

 

My wife is Dutch and she is anything but cheap.. Oh wait.. I'm paying for it.. lol...

 

Sent from my iPhone

 

Just a comment - plastics are not forever, despite what the enviro-activists tell you. Particularly when exposed to UV or solvents, the polymer matrix will break down and become brittle.

The overriding emphasis on fuel economy today (ie the search for lower friction, even the most miniscule fraction of a gain) may be driving this, at the cost of longevity. Plastics today are a lot more stable than plastics of the past, but I would expect a plastic cage to break down after 30-50 years or so. Certainly a steel cage will last indefinitely, or at least until the bearing metal wears out. We'll see - maybe we'll end up like Japan, and routinely scrap any car older than a decade or so.

 

Nick, I certainly respect yours and all others opinions.
The following is merely for extended communication.

We can't fully see the damage extent, yet from what I do see the cage appears to be easily repairable.

Not new cages. I re-use the original or else a cage as removed from another identicle cone roller.

Yes you can consider me cheap but don't get me wrong.
I am much more particular about bearing condition and selection than most.

I am not a mechanic by professional trade so time investment is completely irrelevant to me.
Time investment has no influence.
I do my own mechanical repairs simply because I fully depend on my vehicle.
I learn by doing and observing.

I only buy and use certain bearing brands whenever they are applicable.
I only use Timken roller bearings and Fafnir ball bearings on my Jeeps.
They must be old stock "DEEP" stamped bearings.
Old stock bearings that are manufactured in U.S.A.
I do not use current production "LASER" stamped bearings.
For those who are wondering; WHY bother ?
The "DEEP" stamped bearing i.d. is much more durable than the "LASER" stamped i.d.

I choose those 2 brands exclusively.
I base my selection on observed service life of the various brands.

EXAMPLE:
I go to the extreme effort of locating old stock "Deep" stamped Fafnirs for transmission maindrive and mainshaft. Old stock bearings occasionally take months to locate.

The oldest Fafnirs all used rivotted steel ball cages and not folded steel cages.
IMHO the Fafnir metalurgy is occassionally equaled yet it remains unsurpassed.

A modern high quality USA made MRC ball bearing for identicle application will be laser stamped and will currently have the nylon cages.