curtcanada's 1970 Renegade 1 Resto-Mod Build Post

SCORE!!! Craigslist, you've done it again!

Found an original AMC AM/FM/CB Radio in perfect condition! Even came with the original antenna! Works beautifully! Granted, it's an AMC; but, I'll take it! Almost fits the PO's cut-outs perfectly.

 

Nice score

 

Thats a great looking early '5!

Love the look of OG decals, slots and KM2's!


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Awesome find indeed!


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Crossing my fingers. Thought the master cylinder had a bad leak in it. Turns out the shop overfilled the steering box above it, when they installed the rebuilt engine. So, I got to drive it this morning to the shop for a brake bleed. With the four wheel discs, I'm not sure what will happen. I've heard some guys luck out, and all the stock stuff works with the upgrade. Others have to change out the residual valve, and/or the whole master cylinder.

It'll stop right now, and I felt comfortable taking the back roads this morning. But, I can't get them to lock up, and the pedal hits the floor board.

Felt really good taking it out and running it through all the gears. The 4-speed T-18 with the Warn OD works great with the 4.88's. Got it up to 60 mph, and it purred along nicely. Take off in that first gear (no matter how smooth I try) almost guarantees a skreech from the tires. I'm definitely thinking 2nd gear is a much better idea.

 

I don't know that anyone takes off with a T-18 in first. The T-18's second gear is nearly equivalent to most average first gears.

 

Agreed. It's one of the few "good problems" I have.

 

Back to the "bad problems" Kudos to Big Willies Garage in Grand Junction. First time customer. Went there based on a referral from TDS Tire (another great Grand Junction shop). BWG has an in-house Jeep nut (James), who was very knowledgeable about the ECJ5's.

They bled the brakes, and replaced a caliper. Not knowing what components were used for the disc brake conversion, I figured finding replacement parts was going to be a nightmare. They are off of a 1978 Caprice Classic.

Unfortunately, the pedal still hits the floor. It comes right back up, so not the residual valve. I'm assuming there is a lack of brake fluid volume causing a lack of pressure to fully engage the calipers.

Looks like I'll be in the market for a frame rail mounted aftermarket master cylinder.

Any suggestions?

 

R&P 4 Wheel Drive Parts. Look in the Vender's section at the bottom of the main page

 

I spoke with Jon @ R&P today (thank you for the suggestion Steve). Very knowledgeable and honest. After explaining my symptoms, he agreed that it's a volume issue, and that I need a bigger bore size on the master cylinder.

He tried to figure out a way to mount his newly released master cylinder to my 70 (and I was willing to be the Guinea pig), but he was sure it would be a bigger pain than retrofitting a 1973 AMC disc front/drum rear manual master cylinder. There will be frame rail and body clearance issues that will need to be dealt with, but I should be used to this by now Also, will need to remove the rear residual valve, and replace with a 2 pounder. May also have to monkey around with the alignment to the brake pedal.

I'm going to get the MC in hand, and get an idea of what it's going to take to get this done. I'll post updates and pics as they become available.

 

Sacrificed my 97 Wrangler away for a replacement minivan. Happy wife = Time and Money for the CJ-5 I am about to get 2 weeks of bachelorhood. I have a power steering kit and disc/disc master cylinder kit from Herm the Overdrive Guy, that has been waiting patiently for this opportunity to be installed. There will be grease, there will be blood, and there will be alcohol. However, God willing, there will be a 1970 CJ-5 on the road by the end of this month! Stay tuned...

 

Looking forward to reading about it!

 

First questions of the day : Is this the residual pressure valve (or proportioning valve)? Any words of wisdom about mounting location of these valves (above or below the master cylinder or calipers...does this matter? The new one is considerably larger.

 

A quick search produced this schematic.



From other pics on the net, I'm assuming the answer to my original question was that it is a metering valve; and, it needs to be removed (according to the schematic above).

Also, it looks like I need to go buy (2) 2 lbs. residual inline valves for each of brake line feeds to front and rear.

Thinking ahead, after I bench bleed the master cylinder, how do I install it without the fluid getting all over the place?

Any input greatly appreciated.

 

I called Herm...he's already got me covered 2 lbs residuals are already in the master cylinder, no need for external ones. Guess I'm ready to go. I'll post pics and steps as I go.

 

Ugh. I'm doing this with the body on, so it's already a PITA. I disconnected all the brake lines, and got through all the bolts on the master cylinder bracket, except one. It's hitting the bottom of the body. Can't cut it (no room to get the cutter in there). I'm down to undoing the body bolts and steering bracket, crossing my fingers that the wiring/gas lines/windshield glass/gas pedal linkage/and every body joint that has been painted can take about an inch of flex to get this one bolt out and put a new one in.

 

Yep, sounds about right for this repair.

 

OK...no...really this time guys. Taking advantage of the long weekend, and taking all next week off. Forgoing the power steering (even though I know I'm going to regret it). I did get the old master cylinder out. So, I'm just putting the new MC in, and farming out the brake lines to a local shop. I think getting it road-worthy right now is more important to me.

I enjoy it, when I can get to it, but, that accident last year is still taking it's toll on my back, and family and work are taking up more of my time. I'm starting to entertain the idea of selling once I get it back on the road...but that changes weekly.

 

Late night update. MC is bench bled...feels/looks like everything is in working order. Before I mounted it back under the Jeep, I wanted to test fit the push rod. The metal flange that gets retained, to impede the push rod from coming out of the MC, is too big in diameter. I've seen some pushrods that are threaded and disassemble into 2 pieces. Mine does not. I'm crossing my fingers that the travel is the same for the new MC, when I measure tomorrow.

For now, my only solution is to get out the dremel, and shave off the diameter of the metal flange until it fits and can be held by the retaining clip. Does anyone have a better idea?

I'm assuming I need to keep constant pressure on the "piston" in the MC, when I remove that retaining clip to lock the pushrod's flange in place?

See pics below:

Old pushrod and metal flange:


New MC pushrod entrance:

 

Hey where did you get those Holley vavle covers?? Been looking for a decent pair to match my Holley 4 bbl