1. Registration trouble? Please use the "Contact Us" link at the bottom right corner of the page and your issue will be resolved.
    Dismiss Notice

Flat Towing

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by steve1973, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. Apr 26, 2013
    steve1973

    steve1973 Member

    Nolensville, TN
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2011
    Messages:
    89
    I want to flat tow my 73 cj5 a few hundred miles this summer. All stock. There seems to be conflicting information on the correct way to do this.

    My 73 TSM and 73 OM both state, Transmission in neutral, transfer case in neutral, hubs unlocked.

    I have read elsewhere to put the transmission in first, transfer case in neutral and of cours hubs unlocked.

    Who is correct?
     
  2. Apr 26, 2013
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    Despite what the tsm and om state, put the transmission in gear, transfer case in neutral, hubs if equipped unlocked. This will keep the transmission from burning itself up from lack of lube to the pilot bearings between the input and mainshafts (output shaft). These rely on the cluster gear to turn to get oil to them. With the transmission in neutral this is not turning but the mainshaft can be driven by the oil splashing around in the transfer case. Another thing to think about is how high the rear output bearings are sitting in relation to the oil. These can burn up also. Personally, I'd pull the rear driveshaft. It's 8 nuts. Piece of mind is worth that. For those unbelievers out there, here's what happens when this occurs. This is a Dana 300, but same effect and similar design.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    This one was flat towed with the driveshaft installed over many miles....... There was basically nothing salvageable but the input housing and front output housing iirc. I pulled this one apart for a customer.
    I don't have pics showing the same type of transmission disaster but the effect is similar.
     
  3. Apr 26, 2013
    steve1973

    steve1973 Member

    Nolensville, TN
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2011
    Messages:
    89
    Thanks,
    That all seems to jive with this i pulled off the net

    [TABLE="class: w100p"]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: brdr1_b brdr1_t bg_grey pad mgn_t fm_clr2, colspan: 2"][/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: pad fm_clr2, colspan: 2"]older cj / fsj up to 1979 with the spicer / Dana 18 or 20 can be towed with the t-case in neutral, tranny in gear.

    spicer / dana 18
    [​IMG]

    dana 20
    [​IMG]

    76-79 cj / fsj with the quadra-trac CAN NOT be towed without removal of the drive shaft.

    [​IMG]

    1980-86 cj / fsj with the Dana 300 t-case CAN NOT be towed..... UNLESS It has been clocked to a flat position so the oil will contact the output gear and fling oil to lube it's self. (clocked or turned up for more ground clearance)

    [​IMG]

    from 87-2006 three different cases can be found in the wrangler / rubicon[​IMG] all of which can be towed by putting the t-case in neutral, tranny in gear or on automatic transmissions, in park.

    np / nv 231
    [​IMG]

    np / nv 241or rock trac (rubicon only)
    [​IMG]

    np/nv207
    [​IMG]





    you can check it out for yourself in JP magazines January and May 2007 issues.
    look for the transfer case bible in the intro.

    transfer case identification ...

    [/TD]
    [/TR]
    [/TABLE]
     
  4. Apr 26, 2013
    chriscordova2007

    chriscordova2007 ~JAM-BAM~

    Portland, Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2012
    Messages:
    202
    Speaking of cracked Dana 300's, took mine through the x-ray booth at a customers shop and about to finish welding it all up. :D Thanks nickmil.

    BTW, I have been told 1st gear, neutral t-case, hubs unlocked, and if going more than 200, remove the rear drive shaft.
     
  5. Apr 26, 2013
    chriscordova2007

    chriscordova2007 ~JAM-BAM~

    Portland, Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2012
    Messages:
    202
    Dana can't be towed without clocking it? ... really? :(
     
  6. Apr 26, 2013
    Dummy

    Dummy I kick hippies

    Escondido, CA
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2004
    Messages:
    646
    If it's the blue CJ in your avatar it doesn't look like your driveshaft angles will be an issue. Unlock the front hubs, tranny in Drive (or First gear if it's a manual), and T-case in Neutral. You may want to put a bungee through the steering wheel to the brake pedal to help the steering return to center after sharp turns, but if your suspension/axle geometry is correct it's not usually necessary. Nickmil is obviously right about the oiling issues, so make sure the gearboxes/axles are topped off before you head out just like you would if you were driving the Jeep. The main difference is you'll be up in the tow rig, so you won't hear any grinding, howling, or catastrophes going on in the CJ until it goes boom.

    FYI, on newer rigs with steering wheel lock, disconnect the battery and put the key in the Run position to unlock the steering. I've seen guys forget to do that and it's always comedy when they go to pull out of the parking lot.

    If you're tapping into the factory wiring harness so you don't have to run magnetic trailer lights on the rear bumper you can buy a two-pack of diodes. Wire 'em into the rear directional lights so the current doesn't feed back through the system and make both lights flash. You really don't need to put the diodes in the brake light wiring or running light wiring.
     
  7. Apr 26, 2013
    steve1973

    steve1973 Member

    Nolensville, TN
    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2011
    Messages:
    89
  8. Apr 27, 2013
    DREDnot

    DREDnot Not new to JEEPS

    AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    Messages:
    646
    I didn't take any chances and pulled my driveshaft. Takes about ten minutes and gives you a chance to look around underneath for any potential problems.

    As for turn and brake lights, I pull the rear body plug and plug in directly with a cable from the tow vehicle socket. No diode hokus pokus needed.
     
  9. Apr 27, 2013
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

    At the foot of...
    Joined:
    Apr 4, 2010
    Messages:
    7,110
    Regarding flat towing with a Dana 20-
    would it be better to have the front hubs locked IN? Obviously this would increase wear & tear on the Jeep,
    and increase drag on the tow vehicle, but would it accomplish anything in regards to moving more gear oil
    up to the level of the rear output?
     
  10. Apr 27, 2013
    DREDnot

    DREDnot Not new to JEEPS

    AZ
    Joined:
    Feb 7, 2010
    Messages:
    646
    Its an interesting thought, but I'd say the negatives outweigh the positives.

    I saw a guy that put a full float axle kit in the rear of his CJ and had locking hubs in back , too, for towing to the rubicon every year.

    [​IMG]
     
  11. Apr 27, 2013
    68BuickV6

    68BuickV6 Well-Known Member

    Hesperia, CA.
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Messages:
    2,160
    Many forum members have done the full float for strength or flat towing, but is a pricey swap.
     
  12. Apr 27, 2013
    scott milliner

    scott milliner Master Fabricator

    Seattle Wa.
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2002
    Messages:
    2,361
    I'm one of them. Makes a big difference on how it tows. Like towing a four wheel trailer.
     
    Last edited: Apr 27, 2013
  13. Apr 28, 2013
    stich

    stich New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2012
    Messages:
    49
    Anyone know if you can get a FF for an AMC20 axle? Don't know if anyone makes them anymore.
     
  14. Apr 28, 2013
    chriscordova2007

    chriscordova2007 ~JAM-BAM~

    Portland, Oregon
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2012
    Messages:
    202
    eBay has one right now for narrow and wide track by warn for around 200 but it's just the shafts. R&P 4WD is doing mine for the waggy AMC 20 I'm using and I would recommend them.
     
  15. Apr 29, 2013
    rsbad454

    rsbad454 Member

    NorCal
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2012
    Messages:
    171
    I have a 75 CJ-5, but it has a TF727 dana 20 combo. I'm assuming I need to pull driveshaft as well for towing behind my truck?
     
  16. Apr 30, 2013
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
    Joined:
    Sep 23, 2002
    Messages:
    12,529
    If you're towing 100 miles or less and all fluids are full, and you keep the speeds to a reasonable level, no more than 55-60 mph you could leave the rear driveshaft in. If planning on longer distances or higher speeds I'd recommend removing the driveshaft. This is just what I've learned after rebuilding a LOT of transmissions and transfer cases that have been used in Jeeps that get towed. Regardless, your transmission should be in park.
     
New Posts