Alternative parts for disc conversion

Due to another post i started this thread for jeeper friends who can't get their hands to US car parts for brake conversion.

I used brake calipers from 2.0L V6 Vitara/Sidekick '95 and a brake booster from Vitara/Sidekick 16v i don't know what year but it is 1" bore and 32mm of travel.

http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4698.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/05012010109_zpsd143b5bb.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/05012010108_zpsc3d9ea83.jpg

The brake pedals are from a Hyundai Atos which i convert them to fit, i don't believe you have this model in US but in Europe is easy to find parts.
A friend machinist build the caliper mount and i replaced the spindle bolts with bolts from the inside of the knuckles because i had stripped threads.
Also i had the whole vitara knuckle assembly so it was easy to measure everything for my needs.
The brake calipers might not fit with all the 15" rims so you have to check this. The master cylinder for the brake lines are in metric M10x1
I placed an RPV for the rear drum brakes. I used high pressure goodridge rebuildable hoses.

Because it wasn't my intension to post a thread while i was doing the conversion some photos are from a selfphone others from a camera and i don't have the whole procedure.

This is the caliper mounted on the spindle, some of the bolts are the spindles and the ones that has a washer are for the rotor dust cover.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/29112012417_zps847c8d1d.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/29112012419_zpsf5ae8176.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/29112012420_zps7d55b877.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/29112012421_zps5fafd906.jpg

The whole caliper assemply just right before the rim goes on. I didn't have to grind the knuckle caliper for clearance and the caliper was clocked so i can beed it.
Also the rotor goes on the front side of the hub and not from the backside with pressed studs.
Vitara used across the years two different thicknes rotors from the side where the rim sits to the backside.
This set up and measurments are for the thickest one.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4732_zps1923b06e.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4718_zps7774eac2.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4717_zps44b326b3.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4716_zpsf2829772.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4714_zpsafc7797a.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4710_zps212baeb5.jpg

And the pedals, i had to sorten or bend them to be comfortable from the original drawings.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4736_zps28d9eb0f.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4735_zpsf7415a0c.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4739_zpsbabb586d.jpg

And here are some drawings and measurements for the firewall plate, booster, pedals and caliper mount.
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/firewall_plate_zps6cbaa041.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/caliper_mount_zpsdde248d0.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/pedal_travel_final_zps98ad9e06.jpg

The whole set up can be made with other vitara calipers and rotors which are not ventilated, almost the same set up
but those calipers fited perfect, they have the largest piston vitara used over the years and the bleeder is at the correct angle.
I can't remember if i'm forgeting anything but with the proper questions they'll come in mind.

 

WoW!

I wonder if that would qualify to be a good enough excuse to take a trip to Greece or Italy to source parts for a CJ Brake Job? Hummmmmmm!

 

Here is a few pics of the brake booster and one before the installation.
Thinks are little tight over there now but i plan to move the air filter to the other side of the engine bay where the snorkel goes
I had to move the old fusebox and replace it with after market with blade fuses.
Now the fusebox is inside the cab to the left side of the clutch pedal
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4620_zps98b851b7.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4841_zpsb1896e02.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4840_zpsef20ce22.jpg
http://i366.photobucket.com/albums/oo108/m38a1/DSCF4839_zps616ff2e9.jpg

Thanks tarry, the most frustrating was the relocation of the fusebox
because it was the first time to mess that much with wires
and also i messed them up, so it took me almost ten days to find out what was going on.
The calipers was a bolt on procedure by the time i draw the mounts
and the pedals where build on the bench after a lot of measurment and drawing.

Also i saw that the quality of the pictures was reduced, especially the pics of the measurments
if someone is interested about them i can make a pdf file to mail them

 

Looks great. Looks like less work than chevy parts.

 

Nice Job...............what pedal ratio's did you end up with?

 

Danstew the calipers brackets are bolted directly on the knuckle outside the spindle but it was made from a piece of steel,
the spindle and caliper holes were drilled in a cnc mill and the offset of the surfaces for the spindle and the caliper on a lathe,
because i had stripped threads on the knuckle i did the known upgrade but instead of studs i used grade 8 bolts.
So if your threads on the knuckle are in good condition you just have to use longer bolts.

n6ifp as i wrote above the procedure was very easy by the time i had the drawings for the machinist to build the bracket.
One good thing about this conversion is that you don't have to press the rotor and studs behind the hub because it goes on the outside of it.


tarry the final ratio for the brake pedal which is the most important, is about 3.2/1,
because i had to change the lenght of the pedal to be confortable while driving.
It is soft for every day use and on the trail while you wait on slopes and still be able to lock the wheels with no effort.