Coil resistor, ignition, distributor, timing HELP!

I inspected the tank when I hooked up the fuel sender, and it looks surprisingly clean. I did take the cap off to see if there was a pressure problem, to no avail. It's a brand new fuel filter, the clear type so I can see if it gets fouled. I certainly can remove the fuel line to the tank, but dang... there's all that gas! Roughly half a tank still...

Currently checking valves again, just came in for some coffee and warmth. Pretty cold and wet here in Seattle area.

 

I hope this is not you problem, but I had a very familiar symptoms’ with my 58 cj 5 with the F head. I through part afther part at it and finally ended up being a small crack in between Cy 2 & 3, go worse when Warm. Have you done a compression test?

 

"Have you done a compression test?"

Maybe just a head gasket...

 

Ok guys, I've got three videos up to YouTube. Hopefully they'll be somewhat helpful. It's hard to hear just how bad it's running on video, especially given the belt squeak.

https://www.youtube.com/user/MrPacificNorthWest/videos?view=0&flow=grid

Going out to do another compression test now.

 

Very interesting...

I just did a compression test. 1=150, 2=130, 3=130, 4=150 Recommended is 120-130, so the high reading could be from some sort of build-up on the piston heads? Took the spark plugs out, and this is what I found, from 1-4 left to right.




What am I seeing here guys? Do I need to take the head off and get a valve job done now?

 

mmmmm... #2 and #3 electrodes are both slightly darker, but not much - and those two cylinders are lower on compression, but not much... Just possibly a gasket leak between those cylinders.

On the other hand the compression numbers are pretty good generally. Can't read too much into it.

 

I too have been thinking electrical, but I've replaced almost every component! I'm this close to buying a new distributor all together. I'm thinking that its a combination of things, and first thing tomorrow the head is coming off. I'm just going to have the top end rebuilt and go from there. I'm too lost to do anything else.

 

I've got the head off... but what's interesting is that once I got the distributor out, I noticed that one of the high points on the cam has been worn down to the point that it barely (if at all) breaks the contacts. Looks like a new distributor too!

 

IMO your plugs look okay, how about pictures of the head gasket and top of the block without the head installed? I don't know how you are inspecting the cam? You pulled the distributor and looked down the distrubitor port? You'll have to share that with us. Did you take any pictures?

And did you do a compression leak down test? Cracks can be very small and not leak too badly if the engine is not warmed up.

The crack I had was between Cy 2 & 3..... and it was not easily seen at first. The spark plugs outta mine look similar to yours, 2 & 3 more black than grey/ brown. Just a thought.

 

The way I read it, he was talking about the lobes inside the distributor. Those that the point rub block rides on.

 

i had a vehicle that had a plugged exhaust that would run good until it built up to much back pressure

 

My apologies, I was talking about what uncamonkey said. The gasket is intact, without any obvious tears or gaps. No signs of leakage too. I'm getting pictures uploaded on the block and head. You guys will love the way I finally got that head off. Hint: you ever see a HighLift jack inside​ the engine compartment?

 

man the plugs looked pretty good and the compression seemed good also, Dont know quite why you pulled the head but it doesnt hurt to rebuild it.
Some times overheating will cause the type of problems you have been having.

 

"i had a vehicle that had a plugged exhaust that would run good until it built up to much back pressure"

Me too - squirrels filled the muffler with acorns. But I think the vacuum test would show that up with a falling reading.

 

On the videos that I posted with the vacuum gauge connected, it shows a quickly oscillating needle. The reasons for which are either a leaky head gasket, leaky valve guides, or sticky valves. Given that info, and that I did have a brief increase in RPMs when spraying carb cleaner near a suspect area - so I pulled the head. Certainly wont hurt to have it gone through!

 

Do you have a jeep service manual?

 

Sure do. And I read it more than the bible.

 

Have you tried turning over the engine a few times by hand to see if all the Exhaust values are seating completely? Also since you have the valves cover off and you have the service manual when you go to put it all back together you may want to adjust the intake valves to remove that from the equation.

Do you have a picture on the distributor with the “worn lobes”? I had my distrubutor re built by a guy in named Kurt inSan Deigo who did a great job. www.willysdistributors.com