Concern with engine/tranny removal for 134f

Just started tearing into my 1956 cj5, and want to pull the engine, tranny, and t-case to clean up and rebuild it. But when I look at the engine, I don't see any pick points. I've never pulled an engine before but I bought a 2 ton hoist and I'm eager to pull this thing out. I have searched this forum and seen other methods like using rope. Now I'm not trying to knock anybody's methods, but that seems a little scary at best. I know this engine is a heavy bugger, and I have the tools, just no knowledge. I have a reprint of the original manual, a Haynes manual, and Moses' jeep bible, but nothing on how to rig the engine for removal.
Also will the tranny/transfer case need more support than the crossmember when the engine is removed?
And last but not least, I already pulled the tub off... Kinda figured it would make my project that much easier to work on. Any pics, advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

So, you're separating the engine from the transmission before pulling it, right? If so, then, yes, the transmission and t-case will likely be unbalanced on the cross member and will need supported so that it will not tip, off the cross member, and damage the mount. As far as rigging the engine, I've never pulled a f134 but, on other engines, I look for threaded holes in the head or engine block that are used for mounting accessories (like the alt. bracket). I run a bolt through my lifting chain and thread it into one of these holes (one in front, one in the back). Use some washers to keep the bolt head from getting stuck in the chain link. Do make sure it's a strong point on the engine and your are using grade 8 hardware. Something like a 3/8" diameter bolt in a correspondingly sized hole. I've never wrapped a rope or strap around the engine to pull it. Once it comes out of the motor mounts, strange things can happen. Good, solid mount points are important for your safety and to prevent damage to your vehicle.

 

M38A1 F-heads came with a lifting loop bolted to the head. You might look for one of those. Or a length of chain on two of the head bolts would work. The balance point is about at the middle of the head.

 

Thanks guys. Should I get a block leveler? I see that some have four independent chains with hook type devices that appear to hook on to the head bolts. Looking at the engine, I only see that it is mounted only at the front of the block, and I suppose that the transmission helps hold the rear of the engine up. And what should come out first, tranny or engine, seeing that I have the option.

 

I remove two of the head bolts on diagonal corners of the head, and then using longer bolts, bolt a chain to lift with there. I also find it easier to pull the engine and transmission together and seperate them once they are out.

 

:iagree:

 

I have a 4-chain block leveler that was of no use when I pulled the f-134 in my jeep. A block leveler adds about a foot to the height to which you must raise everything. Unlike the chevy small block in my vette, the jeep is a much taller engine and once you remove the engine, trans and transfer case from the chassis, the chassis will rise 1-2".

You should certainly measure to make sure that you have adequate height to clear everything. and you will probably have to roll the chassis out from under the hanging engine. I keep a couple of spare rims around, without tires, which I put on the front to drop the chassis down (you gain about 6 inches clearance. Of course, you could let the air out of the tires, but without the weight of the body and engine, the tires won't go very flat. I should have built my garage with a 16'cieling, Mine is only 10" so Im restricted in lifting.

Plan ahead, learn from my mistake of not measuring first ;-)

 

I like it! How about a picture of the base?

 

I used a short chain and come-along. To level it ,i just moved the hook on chain and put a old old screwdriver in the chain link. done it so many times , i can't count how many

 

make sure your chain has welded loops dont use some cheap junk

 

Right on guys! Thanks for the helpful advice, I think I'll get this puppy yanked tomorrow.

 

An old swing set frame works great for this. Plus, you can always mount the legs onto heavy-duty furniture moving dollies for mobility.

 

So the engine is pulled! Not too difficult! Ended up using 7/16"-14 x 6" grade 8 bolts with a stack of washers on 4 corners where the head bolts were. Also four 18" long lengths of chain rated at 1300lb to go to the corners of the head. Came out pretty easy. Also used a floor jack under the bell housing to tilt and take the strain off the shaft. Ended up having to remove the floor jack and to my surprise the transmission balanced nicely on the crossmember by itself. Thanks a lot guys. All of your advice has been extremely useful and look forward to hitting you guys up later for more info on many other questions.

 

I have a f134 in my '56 CJ5. I pulled the transmission/transfercase off first. I used a 2 tok hoist and engine leveler. Attached the chains to the bog bolts on the block. As mentioned before, it takes alot of vertical clearance to remove the engine from the chassis. All in all, it was a fairly painless process.

 

If you use the head bolt holes to remove and replace the engine , you need to torque the bolts after you done.