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A NEW question about flat towing!

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by colojeepguy, Aug 13, 2012.

  1. Aug 13, 2012
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    No, really! I know that flat towing has been cussed & discussed on here plenty of times, but I dont recall this particular question before.
    The general concensus is to tow with the t/case (model 18 ) in neutral, and the trans in gear.
    But what about a Warn Overdrive? Should it be in OD, direct, or neutral? Does it matter?
     
  2. Aug 13, 2012
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    cordele, Ga.
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    Won't matter on the O.D. because it's driven by the output from the tranny.
     
  3. Aug 13, 2012
    duffer

    duffer Rodent Power

    Bozeman, MT
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    As Walt noted. I leave mine in direct drive.
     
  4. Aug 13, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    Mine doesn't get towed, but if it did I would put both the tranny and tc in neutral. But that is just me.
     
  5. Aug 13, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    And you would get to replace your transmission or rebuild it on a regular basis, if it were rebuildable.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  6. Aug 13, 2012
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    And why would that be Nick?
     
  7. Aug 13, 2012
    colojeepguy

    colojeepguy Colorado Springs

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    It's possible for residual friction in the transfer case to spin the upper gears and the rear mainshaft of the trans. If the engine is off, the front input shaft isn't turning, which means no oil gets to the upper bearings of the trans, So, it's possible to have those bearings burn out while flat towing with both boxes in neutral.

    Now that I think about it, the Warn OD takes the place of the gear on the back of the trans mainshaft-if the trans is in gear while towing, then the OD cant turn and nothing will happen! hellokitty
     
  8. Aug 13, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Pm sent. No need to rehash what a simple search will turn up.

    To the original poster, I'd recommend transfer case in neutral, transmission and overdrive in gear. Disconnecting the driveshaft is best but as long as the oil level in the transfer case is at proper level this will work ok. I also don't recommend towing over about 60 mph as excessive heat can build up.


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  9. Oct 7, 2012
    Willys57

    Willys57 New Member

    Redding, CA
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    I always flat tow with the transmission, transfer case, AND the overdrive in neutral, with front hubs unlocked and rear driveshaft off. The WWII Military Jeeps were designed to be towed, and you were supposed to disengage the rear drive shafts from the differential by unbolting the rear axle flange and disengaging it somehow. (I've never tried it on my GPW yet.)

    If I'm towing, it's usually not a short distance, so it's worth taking the time to remove the driveshaft just to be on the safe side. If it's under 100 miles, I just drive my CJ-5. Trailering is the very best option, if possible. Just leave it in gear on the trailer with the parking brake on.

    A friend of mine destroyed the engine and transmission of his beautiful '67 Nova SS Convertible by forgetting to put the transmission in neutral. He had towed it many times behind his motorhome. It only took once..... Oh, the joys of old age and forgetfulness. This example is another good reason to put all gearboxes in neutral. You could forget to disengage something and you could be turning the engine too fast. I'd hate to look up the engine calculator to find out the engine RPM's in first gear at 60 mph. If the engine didn't spin, your rear tires would be skidding.

    If you flat tow with the rear driveshaft on and the T-case in neutral, I can't imagine the fluid shear from the output gear turning the T-case intermediate gear, turning the mainshaft gear, then turning the transmission mainshaft , and burning up the main bearings and needle bearings in the T-90. Is the fluid level that much lower than the mainshaft gears that it wouldn't splash oil into the bearings? I'll have to check an empty case..... Most literature from the '50's and 60's say don't tow faster than 35 mph., which is another good reason to drop the rear driveshaft.

    Six months ago, I flat towed my 4,700 lb Willys FC Truck 1,000 miles each way with no problem. I recently packed the front wheel bearings, and I pumped fresh grease in the rear Dana 53. I put double 00 grease in the knuckle housings and in the steering gear box. Those were my only moving parts on the towed vehicle. Yes, I kept it at or below 60 mph, as Nick suggested, mostly because the Willys suspensions weren't designed for speeds faster than 60 mph. I take it slow on curves posted with yellow speed warning signs. I follow their advice. The signs are usually right.

    Another horror story: My buddy was towing his CJ-5 in a snow storm with 5" on the road. The front wheels of the narrow CJ did not track the full sized 4x4 pickup. The front wheels plowed snow and made the wheels take a hard right, whipping the Jeep into the back of the pickup. The result was a bent front fender and the truck's tail light. Don't tow in the snow. And don't locking the steering wheel, it must be free. (This is a common question.) The front wheels must follow the curves. Take wide turns if possible, especially when pulling into the filling station.

    When towing by hook backwards, make sure the tow truck operator locks the steering wheel or ties it to the door post. (I don't remember what to do with the front wheels when pulling a tow dolly. I haven't rented one in a while.)

    Lastly, don't try to back up with a tow bar. If so, don't backup very far, and stay straight. You can't park it like a trailer.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2012
  10. Oct 7, 2012
    nickmil

    nickmil In mothballs.

    Happy Valley, OR
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    Sigh. Yes, this can and does happen. Not always but I've had to throw away more transmissions than I care to think about because of exactly this reason. When the output shaft is being driven by the transfer case the speed gears on the main shaft and the pilot/pocket bearings are not being lubricated. These rely on the splash, oil climb, and pumping action of the oil climbing the counter gear to get the oil up there. When the output shaft is being turned by the transfer case the countergear is held immobile by the input gear/shaft. Hence, the bearings and gears starve for oil. I've seen many where the input and mainshaft were literally welded together. Others where the speed gears were welded to the mainshaft. I had one that had gotten so hot it burned the gear oil out, the counter gear welded to the counter shaft, and the shaft spun in the case. Even the front bearing retainer was ruined on that one. Because the transmission and transfer case share oil with a T-90, the 18 transfer case had a lot of damage in this case also.

    Guess next time I get one in I'll have to take pics to show the naysayers what I'm talking about and have proof positive:rofl:.
     
  11. Oct 7, 2012
    napaguy

    napaguy Banned

    goldendale wa
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    Gentlemen lets review the forum rules once again...no discussion of religion, politics, pitbulls or flat towing :)
     
  12. Oct 7, 2012
    Willys57

    Willys57 New Member

    Redding, CA
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    What's wrong with discussing religion, politics, and pitbulls? (lol)
     
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