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Stripping Tub Paint and Other Body Work Qs

Discussion in 'Intermediate CJ-5/6/7/8' started by TexasBlues, Apr 9, 2012.

  1. Apr 11, 2012
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

    Marietta, GA
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    excellent, thanks Norm!...

    looks like i ll be making a HF run soon!
     
  2. Apr 11, 2012
    LarryD

    LarryD Member

    Gallup NM/ 4 Corners
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    For paint stripping I used a combination. I went over the surface rather quickly with a DA and a 36 grit pad and scratched the surface. I then applied a heavy duty paint stripper in a gel form from the big box store. I then followed up with wire wheels and sandpaper. Without the first step of scratching the paint surface not much progress could be made but once the paint remover started to penetrate it went pretty fast.
     
  3. Apr 11, 2012
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    tim its not an iso but the reaction is as bad just different chemicals only get one set o lungs i dont spray anything without gear...
     
  4. Apr 11, 2012
    sterlclan

    sterlclan Member 2022 Sponsor

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    tim its not an iso but the reaction is as bad just different chemicals only get one set o lungs i dont spray anything without gear... ps i vote aircraft stripper pps i dont get the double post must have fat fingers...
     
  5. Apr 1, 2014
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

    Marietta, GA
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    went back and re-read this one...

    hit the side of the tub last night and the paint is SO thick on there its INSANE.. I would say at least 3 colors and 4 primers (last coat being the primer)...

    im going to the HD today for a tarp, so I will look into the gel stripper for Ss and Gs (poops and laughs)...

    its been a YEAR since I even touched her and shes really starting to get moody... hope to make some good progress this warm season...

    will probably hit up some of the other sections looking for mounting details and stuff for tranny/xfer case etc... been a while since I was under it and I don't remember how it all goes :mehh: and the new one doesn't HAVE a tranny to look at for reference

    thanks again everyone... have a GREAT spring time!!
     
  6. Apr 1, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    Good luck! Don't get that stuff on your skin or (heaven forbid) in your eyes. Gloves, face shield, full body coverage. Throw-away bristle brushes (nothing plastic).
     
  7. Apr 1, 2014
    davistroy

    davistroy Grasshopper

    Marietta, GA
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    Matt, I still owe you some hours ... Holler at me and I'll drive mine over ... Purrs like a kitten now.

    PLUS I want to do the same thing and paint mine, so I want to learn!
     
    Last edited: Apr 1, 2014
  8. Apr 2, 2014
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

    Marietta, GA
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    no worries troy, im not keeping score... come by anytime you want...

    SO glad to know you got yours on the road, I would LOVE to see it...

    PM me whenever

    SO.... I used the gel stripper... followed the instructions, which is a 1ST for me.. gloves, glasses, shield and respirator just in case...

    it took off SOME of the old paint, the newer stuff came right off... after 30 mins or so I got tired of waiting and put on a new cup brush and hit it with the angle grinder...

    MAGIC!!...

    took the tail gate to bare metal as well as a wheel-well (front)... I AM experimenting... and I KNOW using a grinder probably is NOT the best way to go about it... but I cant see standing over a piece of steel for 4-5 hours scrubbing with a bondo spreader... this is what I have picture wise...

    BEFORE

    [​IMG]

    AFTER (I hit both places with some hi-build rattle can primer to prevent flash rust...

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    couple more questions...

    anyone know where I can get RED Scotch Brite Pads?

    after youre done... do you just rinse it off with water?

    and finally... when using 'Works' for rust removal... how do you dispose of it? I think its HCl... hydrochloric acid, but im not sure
     
  9. Apr 2, 2014
    Wenaha

    Wenaha Member

    West Coast
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    Most rust removers are formulations with phosphoric acid. Some people use muriatic acid, a common swimming pool chemical for removing concrete stains.
     
  10. Apr 2, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

    Medford Mass USA
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    There are rust convertors and rust removers.

    Rust convertors change the chemical state of the rust from red oxide (rust) to black oxide. It's up to you to top coat with some kind of paint. Phosphoric acid is a rust convertor.

    Rust removers actually dissolve the rust and lift it off, leaving a bare steel surface. The only rust remover I know of is oxalic acid, which dissolves the red rust. This was the main ingredient in radiator flush, until it was banned for environmental reasons.

    Muriatic acid is hydrochloric acid. I presume it removes rust by etching the base metal under the rust.
     
  11. Apr 2, 2014
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    I am not an expert - nor am I condoning any particular thing... just telling you what worked for me... in that it is free advise... your experience and personal 'risk' tolerance should be your guide. Children, pets and those incapable of identifying danger should never be near when you're using this stuff...

    So, I use on small parts where I can control what's in the bucket... like a large plastic coffee container(foldgers is plastic - important to use plastic - do not use glass or steel - and you can use the lid after you are done to cover the container).

    I use the 32% Muratic from Osh Hardware. This is in the paint stripper aisle, not the pool supply aisle.

    Muratic Pool Acid I've seen is 17%.

    I've used both concentrations, and well, the pool variety by (17%) concentration doesn't work as 'effectively or efficiently'... just saying, but the concentrations should tell you that tho.

    1) Wear Glasses and gloves and potentially clothes you can stand to burn holes through... keep a hose or other fresh water source near just incase you need it for safety sake (as a rinse for splash if needed).
    2) Do this 'outside'. A by-product I believe is Hydrogen (as well as water and other stuff that may be bad for you - crs for me - chemistry retained slightly - from 20+ years ago). Remember what happened to the Hindenburg - you don't want your garage or shop doing the same.
    3) See #2. This stuff stinks when it is working. (Don't put your face over it to smell).
    4) See #2. 32% Muratic acid 'reacts' with the elements in the air and will 'smoke' when you pour it from the jug and let it sit at ambient room temps. (thus it's 'nasty' stuff if you think about it).

    Other metals may 'react' (like copper, brass, bronze, aluminum, etc.) and your iron parts may get sort of 'plated' in the process. I notice 'brass' and 'copper' coatings most. Might the anode type metals I toss in (a penny or an old brass 'cartridge' case will do).

    I generally put the parts in for 5 minutes or so. Then I swirl the contents (See #1 and #2). When there is no more bubbling (reaction complete), then I safely fetch the parts out keeping as much liquid for the next batch. No rust left. period. Some etching/pitting does occur as rust is 'removed' from the item.

    Also seems to 'eat' grease (turns to 'soap' substance essentially from what I can tell).

    Mileage may vary on 'how long' if your parts are flaky-rusty and coated in caked on dirt/grease. I left parts 'overnight' with some such and they didn't seem the worse for wear - just 'extra' clean. Not sure what it might have 'eaten' over night.

    NOTE: flash-rust is your enemy after you completely rinse the items you wash. I use a light spray lubricant/oil/stuff (WD-40 is ok, PB Blaster coats well also). IF I want to paint the item, use the air-hose and dry it, I immediately dry in sun, etc., then use an etching primer (have had ok luck with the rattle-can variety so far, pick a brand and stick with it for your rattle-can finish afterward also).

    To dispose? Put a cup or three in a water can with a gallon of water pour on your concrete, swish a broom around. Don't wear your flip flops doing this... It will foam and consume itself in seconds. Your concrete will 'etch' and be nice and shiny. Then is a good time to paint, stain or epoxy the concrete...
     
  12. Apr 2, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    With a little reading, it appears that HCl does n fact dissolve rust.
    6 HCl (aq) + Fe2O3 (s) --> 2 FeCl3 (aq) + 3 H2O (l)

    The Ferric Choride FeCl3 is soluble in water.

    It also reacts with iron to make hydrogen gas.
    Fe (s) + 2 HCl (aq) ---> FeCl2 (aq) + H2 (g)

    So if you see tiny bubbles in the acid, that's the steel etching away.

    To dispose of the HCl remains, you could neutralize it with baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) or washing soda (sodium carbonate) to excess, then pour it down the drain. Washing soda is cheap enough.
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2014
  13. Apr 2, 2014
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

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    I was wondering how to dispose of 'The Works' toilet cleaner that many of us use to remove the rust from nuts and bolts and other fiddly parts...

    but thanks for the info :D
     
  14. Apr 2, 2014
    Danefraz

    Danefraz Well-Known Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    ahhhh.

    If you're on city sewer, you could flush it - use it to 'clean your pipes' - it'll likely consume itself on the effluent below your house on the way to the sewer junction at the street (or shortly there after).

    Not sure how it treats septic systems, or if you need to just follow a quart of buttermilk after it when on septic...
     
  15. Apr 3, 2014
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

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    i assume that it wont eat my PVC lateral?

    of course, i have DIP (Ductile Iron Pipe) in the house but i had my lateral (approx 200') put in a few years ago... it wasnt cheap and i dont want to destroy it...

    thanks!
     
  16. Apr 3, 2014
    timgr

    timgr We stand on the shoulders of giants. 2022 Sponsor

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    Plastics generally are not affected by acids and bases. They sometimes dissolve in petroleum solvents though.

    Costco has a 10 lb bag of baking soda for $5. Dump in baking soda until the liquid stops foaming/fizzing, then dump the whole mess down the drain. Washing soda works too, and should be cheaper.
     
  17. Apr 3, 2014
    TexasBlues

    TexasBlues JEEP-Hockey-Holic

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    ok, thanks guys!
     
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