1969 CJ5 project

Today I got a 465 married to a 205 for $250. It shifts and turns nice and smooth, out of a 3/4 ton suburban. Probably get a 14B and a Dana 44 next weekend for $350, maybe even tomorrow.

 

just don't take as long as i did mine

nice score on the tranny and t-case. are you gonna rebuild or just run it as is? might want to change at least some seals. mine is leaking between the tranny and the adapter. from what i've read, it is most likely the seals inside the adapter. btw, is there a 4wd indicator switch on the t-case? that is one thing i never paid attention to on mine but want to hook it up, if there is one, eventually.

edit:
another leak on mine is at the speedo cable connection. you might have to replace the threaded part if it leaks there also...

 

I think I'm just going to throw some new seals at the tranny and t-case. I opened the top cover on the 465 and everything looks nice and oily, first and reverse are a little beat up, but that's normal for straight cut non synchro gears.

 

Here's a picture of the insides.

 

Finally got some stuff in the new garage and can start working on it.

Jeep tub remains and sheet metal.



Started cutting out floor up to the firewall.



Some stuff in the back of the shop.



There's a money pit taking up my space.

 

Anyone have any tricks to getting the top piece of the A-pillar out? I think I just need to find the rest of the spot welds and the air hammer will bust it right out.

 

So, Um... What is the part you are keeping from the tub?

 

Killer garage bye the way. I can only DREAM of that sort of space!

 

Just the cowl and the firewall, at least those parts are still in good shape.

I have a set of side panels that include the complete A-pillar so I'm going to weld those into the cowl and go from there, but first I have to stretch the side panels 20" to CJ6 length.

I'm going to get a bunch of angle iron to brace up the tub so it's square and the right width. Then I can work on making a tailgate opening. After the tub is roughed out I need to build the frame so I know where to put the floor.

 

Not much to add, I got the A-pillar out of the drivers side and made a little patch to fix the rot below the windshield frame. Haven't welded in a while so it's kind of crappy, I need to get a flap wheel to finish grinding and weld whatever little holes I missed.

 

I didn't get too much else done this week, I did some work on the lower end of the passenger side firewall. It was rotted out where the support was spot welded on the lower edge.

Tomorrow I'm going to pick up the stuff I need to make a sheet metal brake, then I can really start to crank out replacement panels.

 

Turns out my windshield frame needs some work, well a lot of work. I'm going to work on it since I won't have my piano hinge to make the brake for a few days.

3 of 6 bolts holding on the hinges broke ...



I'll probably replace all of the metal on the bottom side ...

 

looks like you got some work ahead of you. cant wait to see how it turns out

 

Turn out, the bottom of the windshield frame was made of rust and body filler.

I have more time than money so this frame will get fixed.

 

Well there is almost nothing left of the frame. I'm going to attempt to build a new one soon.

 

I got the windshield out of the frame, and then I attacked it with the air hammer until the sheet metal fell off. I didn't even break the windshield either.

I ordered a Piano Hinge from Mcmaster Carr for the brake, this week I'm going to go down to the steel warehouse and get some angle iron and square tubing. Anyone ever use the HF air nibbler to cut sheet metal? I'm thinking of buying one for all this sheet metal work.

Here is a picture of what I'm left with.

 

Which would one of you guys buy first for cutting 18 gauge sheet metal?

Air shears- http://www.harborfreight.com/pistol-grip-air-shears-98580.html

Electric shears- http://www.harborfreight.com/14-gauge-swivel-head-shears-92115.html

Metal shears- http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-sheet-metal-shear-92148.html

 

I've used the HF Pistol Grip Shears for several years and it works, within limits. If you get any pistol grip, make sure you get some sort of swivel for the air intake. Makes it much easier to not fight with the air hose all the time. On the HF Shears, it works okay if you keep the head well lubricated. I give it a shot of WD-40 before each long cut. And I've only used it on .040 aluminum, not steel, so I can't speak to how it works there. My cuts with it haven't been totally precise, but it didn't matter for what I was making, like race car body panels.

 

Did you mean the 3rd one on the list or the 2nd one, HF Shears? I think I'm going to pick up the 2nd and 3rd one on the list. I have a good 220v compressor but the electric shears probably have more torque.