Metcalfs Electric Emergency Brake Kit

Put the jeep on jack stands, press the brakes solid a few cycles then go around and spin the tires. The residual pressure valve should lock both sides of the axle and then continue per supertrooper's instructions, but switch the lines on the master cylinder before taking it off and make sure the locked wheels follows the master cylinder port.
If only one wheel is having an issue or it does not switch rear to front I would start inspecting hoses for flow.

 

If my pushrod was a little long, and wasn't letting plunger all the way out at rest, would that cause my pedal to get increasingly hard and holding brakes on?

 

That could do it, put it on stands pump em firm then pull the rod off and see if everything spins freely.

 

I pulled the spring, washer and rubber washer off of my brake pedal shaft and all seems good now. Drove it around, braking a lot, and nothing got locked up or got super hot. I think I'm gonna have to pull floor again to shorten rod and I should be able to re-install washer assembly. Thanks for the input guys. By the way, disc brakes rock, and the parking brake is awesome!

When yall disengage your parking brake, are y'all running the motor all the way back or just enough to release?

 

At first I’d release the parking brake by pushing the momentary switch 3 or 4 times in the unlock direction and if I didn’t feel it was enough, I’ll push it 2-3 more times. Each push is 1 second. Now that I have dozens of uses on it, I find 4 pushes is enough to release no matter how soft or hard I apply them. When setting them, I don’t take it all the way to popping the circuit breaker. I’ve gotten close as I can hear my alternator slow down from the draw. When coasting (out of gear) at about 15 MPH and applying the parking brakes one click at a time, 3 clicks almost brings it to a stop and 4 will lock the brakes. One could count the number of seconds to apply and disengage and not do multiple pushes.

My rule of thumb is lock it down on a sloped area and give it one more push down to secure it. Try it in different situations and slopes.

I use an adjustable rod on the brake pedal to the master with a 1/16 air gap and a brake pedal spring to make sure no pressure is on the master.

If the master cylinder is made for rear drums there’s probably a 10lb residual valve in it. Determine if there is one and remove it BEFORE mounting the cylinder. In Ford/GM versions it’s a spring and black rubber piece just behind the removable brass seat. If the seat is removable, take it out and confirm there’s not one in there. Don’t use a master cylinder made to attach to a power booster unless running the booster. The depth of the master cylinder piston if significantly deeper and requires a much longer push rod.

The large side of the master reservoir is for the front brakes and there probably isn’t a removable brass seat. If your master has equal sides and both have removable brass seats, check them both. If pushing a tooth pick in one feels different resistance than the other, pull that one. What you are feeling is the rubber valve and spring.

 

I think I was messing up the calipers by running them all the way back each time. Theres a lot of very small ball bearings and springs inside these. I think it was over torquing them. The factory fords have a "matinance mode" that pulls the piston in further to replace pads. Lessons learned for sure.
Thanks for the help.
JT

 

Has anyone who installed this on a tapered 44 noticed that the hub seal does not touch the hub? I’m putting this kit on a 44 right now and it doesn’t seal because the stock backing plate is no longer used.

 

I ended up chopping out the centers from some backing plates to make shims.