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Yep, Bought A '68 Cj5(project)

Discussion in 'Builds and Fabricators Forum' started by Dne007, Jan 30, 2020.

  1. Apr 17, 2020
    fhoehle

    fhoehle Sponsor

    Harford Township, PA
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    You're not afraid of the under seat tank are ya? Lol
     
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  2. Apr 17, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    You mean the ejection module o_O:sneak:

     
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  3. Apr 19, 2020
    Twin2

    Twin2 not him 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    filler neck looks like this . rear tank
    gas.JPG
    the bung on side of hose is for vent hose
     
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  4. Apr 22, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Gee, I had to look for my build~ it was way down the line:(, but I'm back:bananatool:

    Got a few parts in: alternator, fuel pump, and other

    Though not shown in the pics, I did install the intake manifold, finished up the plumbing for the brakes, just need the brake light switch from Kaiserw along with some other parts.

    I changed the color from red to flat black on the diff covers, looks much better:beer:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I disassembled the new alternator, and painted it(hope it works)
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I put the carb on the intake mainly to cover the holes. Ideas on the carburetor? :confused:Looks like someone has been in this one recently, but I can redo it and definitely make it look much nicer and hopefully function.
    [​IMG]

    This afternoon I'm going put the tub back on and begin looking at steering columns~ it's just a temporary thing with the tub~ of course it will be coming back off soon after what I need to do;)
     
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  5. Apr 22, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Hi again! I've a question about the fan~ I'd like a flex fan to do away with the stock heavy metal fan, it measures to be a little over 15.5", so a 15" would work, but when I buy a new fan shroud, will it go as low below the radiator? Kind of strange the fan is so low, not even near the center of the radiator.

    [​IMG]

    Or would it be better to go with an electric fan? Only thing I don't like about electric is the noise they make.

    [​IMG]

    parts only held by a couple screws. I needed the tub on to get the right angle of the brake pedal relative to the tub.

    [​IMG]

    I hope it maintains a little of the height, I know "settling may occur"

    [​IMG]


    The diff looks really nice;)
    [​IMG]

    Honest opinions on the air cleaner? I can't find the breather which goes to the valve cover:(

    [​IMG]







     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2020
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  6. Apr 22, 2020
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    I like the steel 6 blade fan over the rest. Seen flex fans cause Clarence issues. Just a personnel opinion. Check with J&W dismantlers in Antelope, CA for the breather cap. Parts Dude out of Carson City, NV may have one.

    Everything looks too good!!!!! throw some mud on it:shock::rofl:Nice job!

    Remember, after about 3 hundred miles re-torque the spring U-bolts.

    You may want to put a 1" fan spacer on. Used to set the fan blades to be 1 1/2" away from the radiator. Is the radiator a 2 row or 3?
     
  7. Apr 22, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Thanks Jim, you know I have to pull it all back apart and start the paint process:D, still haven't decided on a color scheme yet:confused:
    oh, ti's a three row, but looking into getting a new radiator.
    Forgot to mention, the Novak headers are on the way:bananatool:
     
    Last edited: Apr 22, 2020
  8. Apr 23, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    sigh, I need a little help :confused: The new tie rod just almost goes through the pitman arm, that's the way it was, but the new tie rod does the same thing. I thought maybe the pitman arm was worn out, so bought a new pitman arm only to do the same thing. It's difficult to find the right part:madwife:


    [​IMG]

    This is the way it was, the previous whomsover put a washer on it, but was still loose in the pitman arm. the new tie rod in the new pitman arm is a tad better, but would require a washer, just afraid of tightening it too tight, may go through the hole.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Apr 23, 2020
    mike starck

    mike starck Member

    salem,oregon
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    If you are using a GM pitman arm the TRE hole is slightly larger than the JEEP part.You can run the GM part with the thick washer on top for a spacer or buy a Jeep application pitman arm with the correct hole size. I have done this in the past with out trouble but would not recommend it.Your choice.
     
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  10. Apr 23, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Thank you Mike!(y)
     
  11. Apr 23, 2020
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    get a Jeep P/S arm. Cheap insurance.

    Yes a 3 row will be good.....don't let them sell you the XXL one-----meaning, high number of fins per sq inch. Found them TOO restrictive at low speeds. Found the XL is very good for hot climates and Jeeping and the core will still use the stock tanks and straps.
     
  12. Apr 23, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Thanks Jim, I don't really know much about radiators other than there are cheap(lesser price) and expensive. On the partsdudue4x4 place, they have a radiator at a reasonable price(175) and a shroud for 160(ouch). That being said, I know where they are. Now KaiserWillys has a radiator for 399(alumin) and a made in USA for 584(ouch)., Now I know I'm not going to spend 400 much less 584, I'll tend to go on the "lesser expensive" one for 175 from a reputable jeep place which also has a shroud. My jeep will be a show jeep and never see trails~ I think it will do the job, but I'm not really ready to buy, but would like to get it out of the way and put those parts on the shelf;)

    Fan Shroud - Jeep-CJ Forums
    Fan Shroud (CJ5)
    Aluminum Radiator
     
  13. Apr 23, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    This is killing me, but see if I can explain the picture. The engine tilts back say 4-5 degrees(carb is pretty much level). The radiator/support it's attached to leans forwardly probably 6-7 degrees, making kind of a "V" between the two. If I remove the two top bolts of the radiator, I can bring the radiator square to the frame, but then leaves a gap between the radiator support(grill) and radiator. Who designed this?:madwife: I know I'll leave it alone, but it messes with me like a crooked picture on the wall:mad:

    [​IMG]

    oh, I have a question!! If I'm not going to be installing a heater system~ can I remove the 90degree heater spicket on the rear of the intake and plug it, same for the water pump? or do I have to run a hose to those two, like a by-pass?
     
  14. Apr 23, 2020
    Jeepsterjim

    Jeepsterjim Member

    Lincoln, CA
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    You can remove the spicket. Radiators are expensive. Don't you think the motor compartment was designed by a female engineer?
     
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  15. Apr 23, 2020
    OzFin

    OzFin Vintage Jeep Guy

    Michigan
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    Your radiator to fan seems to be at a much different spacing & angle as compared to mine in my 70 C101, which is basically a CJ6 front end.

    [​IMG]


    Was the spacing and angle like that before the disassembly? I lifted the picture below from one of your earlier post but I cannot quite see the spacing clearly at the angle of that picture... that being said, it kind of appears to have a little more room in that image.


    [​IMG]
     
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  16. Apr 23, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Wow, you're right!! I'm going to take a close look at the tub, alignments etc, and see what I come up with~ thanks for pointing that out!;)
    nitey nite~;)
     
  17. Apr 24, 2020
    Norcal69

    Norcal69 Out of the box thinker 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    You could buy a tie rod flip bushing and use it in the non flip configuration..... but I would buy a Jeep application pitman arm.
    Personally I would not worry about pitman arms, caster angle, Bump steer, pinion angles ect..... until you get the jeep completely assembled with weight in it. Will likely save you from doing things twice. BTDT
     
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  18. Apr 24, 2020
    txtoller

    txtoller Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Here is my 71, my angle is not nearly as severe.
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Apr 24, 2020
    Dne007

    Dne007 Well-Known Member 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor

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    Gee Jason, I'm so jealous~ I'm going to look at everything today. Which distributor are you using? I have yet to look at distributors:sleep:

    Though you can't see it, but between the transmission crossmember and frame are 2 "shims" per side, each shim is 1/4" for a total of 1/2 per side dropping the entire assembly down. I'm going to remove the shims and see what it looks like there. As for the grill/radiator tilt~ I did something I thought was good, that was put some thicker frame to body insulators which are at least 3/4" thick, maybe even an 1", I'll re-installed the proper ones and re-evaluate, I'll be back;)
    [​IMG]
     
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  20. Apr 24, 2020
    txtoller

    txtoller Member 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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