HEI distributor cap #1 terminal

I removed plug #1 and felt for compression with my finger as the timing mark came around to "0". I read about a doohicky called a piston stop or sticking a pencil down the hole. I found it easier and maybe safer to just to look in the hole. I could watch the piston come up and pause before going back down as I turned. Are you saying the piston will come to the top every time the timing mark hits "0"? I thought it went to the bottom when it was 180* out?

 

Yeah but explains the times yesterday where it wouldn't run. What a day...I almost put the Jeep up for sale! lol

 

This is the position I ended up with yesterday, see any issues? My vacuum advance is further CCW then most I've seen posted on the web. It idles at 600 RPM and is about 9* BTDC. The rotor lines up with post #1 on the cap at TDC.

 

Amen!

 

If your going from 9 to 32 without vacuum advance - you have too much mechanical.

As to TDC - that works, just make sure your on the compression stroke or your 180 out. Some old timers have a whistle they adapted to an old spark plug base. I put my finger on the hole feel compression and IF I need to get true TDC, slip a straw in and watch it move up and down.

Position does not matter - The only thing that matters is the relative position of the rotor in the cap to post number one. You can pick anyplace where the teeth line up as long as that happens.

 

It's taken me this long to come as far as I have. I don't even want to go down that road...Plus I can't eat anymore exhaust!

I went for a longer test run and everything sounds and feels good. There was one time when I heard some popping after letting off the gas. I got home just in time to run out of gas. Too bad , I was hoping to recheck the timing and be wrong with what I posted earlier.

 

Of course...All my timing adjustments have been done in the driveway. I had a coworker commit suicide (while on the job) by running a hose from the tailpipe into his cab.

 

I would 'think' so, but have never done it that way, and there may be impacts. I have always changed the springs and weights on the arms to pull it into spec and then work the vacuum side.

I know in theory the vacuum would change based on load, so at higher RPMs it may have more of an impact on how the motor works and the 'curve'. There has to be reason they split the curve in mechanical and vacuum levels from what I can see.

 

Okay... I think I can move forward with this upgrade.

Plugged vacuum line.
Idles at 650 RPM.
Timing at 9*.
Under acceleration it's at 17*.

Connected vacuum line.
Idles at 650 RPM.
Timing at 9*.
Under acceleration it's at 32* max.

 

And 15* is what I posted in #59 as well. That part seems pretty consistent as I used a dial in Vacuum Canister as well.

 

**Update**

I started a thread regarding my 2 Jet running better with partial choke. Once that issue was resolved the thread took a huge turn at post #18 towards diagnosing my HEI problems. I think the outcome is worth linking too, as it may help others trouble shoot their HEI troubles.

Starting with post #18 regarding HEI troubleshooting - 2 Jet Runs Better With Choke On Plus HEI Issue

 

Did you read through where does #1 go( said in a austin powers voice)

Edit: I posted a picture in your other thread.