Hard Ride Differencs Cj's

I will add that Holbrook is no longer making Cj long leafs, I called them and the Comapny has changed hands

 

There is just enough room. This is how I did it on my last jeep, and plan on doing it with my current jeep:

1. Measure between the bolt holes of rear spring hanger and shackle bracket eye to eye to get the stock distance / setting for the rear spring mounts. I get about 44.75". Use this base measurement for putting rears in the front.
2. Now in the front, set the new spring hangers about 3" back from original, making sure the center of the spring, where the axle sits, ends up in the same place it was. This is the fixed end and will set the axle position.
3. Adjust the shackle how you want it by positioning the front shackle bracket. If you put it all the way to the front of the frame horns, that's about 3" forward off the center of the holes from the original shackle position, and obviously as far as you can go without lengthening the frame. This will likely put the shackle close to around a 10 degree angle. You'll have just enough room to work it out.
4. Tack weld and clamp everything securely in place
5. Install the springs, axle etc.
6. Gently weight the springs. See how you like it & recheck axle placement. Make changes/adjustments if necessary, before bolting and welding everything in place.
7. Adjustments possible: bracket locations, shackle length, shackle angle, and leaves in spring pack.

Important things to consider.
---If your steering and winch set-up allows for it, weld in a 2"x4" 1/8" steel cross-member, at the frame ends, right between the frame horns. This stiffens the front end a lot and lets your flexy springs do the work. You can put a channel bumper over it if you want.
---Box/reinforce the frame (if its not already boxed) at the new locations of the spring hangers.
---Rear springs, although longer, often have a bit more arch (for the specified lift) and can carry more weight. It may be useful to take out a leaf, depending on your donor springs, the front-end weight and how you want the front to sit in relation to the rear end.
---With these longer springs, if you want even more droop, you can bring your shackle bracket back a bit, without losing much lift, because you likely just gained a bit of lift in the front. The idea is set your shackle angle a little more than than the normal 10 or so degrees.
---Its worth installing taller shock towers and putting in longer shocks to take advantage of the better articulation.
---The springs will flex more, so make sure they are not going to crush anything on the up travel, like tie rods, if you have them flipped.

 

I was wondering about that....they've changed their web site

 

When setting mine up for the YJ springs, I just measured a stock YJ and used that measurement
for spring hanger to shackle distance. Got lucky, shackles almost straight up and down.
Bought all 8 new bout 100$ and if u need more lift, theirs the pluse 1in shackles.

 

sorry for the late answer. But I have room for 3 inch since I have lenghtened it during restauration. But you can work with a degree plate between the axle and the spring with an extra hole 2 cm in front of the center ( weld a bold from under in the front hole sticking 1 cm out where the axle falls over. So the centerbold stays at the same place but the axle moves 2 cm to the front the front while placing the hanger 2 cm to the rear. this means you haven to place the front hanger 5,5 cm to the front instead of 3 inches. ( axle stays in the original place) . Are you still with me?

 

see text above

 

Their was room on my 70 frame to place axle in stock position,
Center the longer YJ spring, and weld ends accordingly .