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Poor Dauntless Performance

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by OrangeCJ5, Apr 8, 2016.

  1. Apr 8, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2003
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    422
    Alright guys, seems like one problem goes down and another crops up. This Jeep hadn't been registered in 15 years before this year so I have expected all the problems that have come up. Here is my current issue:

    Extremely poor performance from the Dauntless in the Jeep. I'm talking completely gutless below 2000 rpm and after that mostly gutless, won't pull up even the slightest grade.

    Rather than starting off with a big list of stuff I think is good and then you all throwing crazier and crazier suggestions at me because I eliminated what is probably the problem right off the bat, let's just start from zero.

    The Jeep is in the garage, I just got done with a very disappointing test drive. I can check anything, pull anything, measure anything, take a pic of anything.

    Thanks in advance!

    Mike
     
  2. Apr 8, 2016
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

    Big Island on...
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    How's the fuel delivery?
     
  3. Apr 8, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Look at the basics first.............how old is the fuel, check / replace your fuel filter / do a compression or leak down test / check your timing both ignition and piston to valve.
     
  4. Apr 8, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    Just rebuilt the carb, two squirts of fuel down the carb when I push down the plunger. Brand new fuel pump, new fuel lines, plenty of fuel comes out when pumping into a gas can.
     
  5. Apr 8, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    Brand new fuel, see through filter is clean. I'll grab my buddy's compression tester tomorrow. I don't know how to test the piston to valve.
     
  6. Apr 8, 2016
    Alan F

    Alan F Sponsor

    SE TX
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2015
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    168
    A few things to check:
    Do you still have a points ignition? Dwell must be set accurately before timing can be set.
    Is the distributor advance working?
    As stated above, need a compression test.
    How's the timing chain?
    Are all the valves lifting the same?
    Does the linkage on the carb open the carb fully?
    Are there any exhaust restrictions?
     
  7. Apr 9, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    If your Ignition timing is way off then perhaps your timing chain is either worn out or has jumped a tooth..........turn the motor over by hand via a breaker bar with a socket on the front of the crankshaft. First start by pulling all the spark plugs , you also need to find the timing slot cut into your front hub on the crankshaft.......this is a narrow cut maybe 1/16" wide by the width of the hub......sometimes there dirty so you have to look closely and clean it up , you also need to find the timing marks in the front cover , which are normally cast into it.

    While rotating the motor over by hand take your thumb or first finger and partially block the spark plug hole in the #1 plug position in the head.........as you continue to turn it over you will feel air pressure starting to push against your finger ( don't release it keep your finger there plugging the hole)., that is the piston coming up . At the same time watch the mark on the crank and the pointer on the timing cover..........as the pressure increases it may push your finger off........stop right there and look at the front cover and see how close the crank hub and the front cover marks line up.........if they are within 15-20 degrees that is probably close enough to assume the chain has not jumped...........while still in the same position , pull your distributor cap and observe where the rotor is pointing..............is it pointing to the #1 Spark plug wire on the cap?............if it is then Piston to valve timing along with Ignition timing should be fairly close..........follow that up with a timing light and more closely time your motor to the correct Ignition timing. The vacuum advance hose should be removed and blocked off during the test...............if this all checks out do your compression or leak down test........Good Luck!
     
    Beach66Bum likes this.
  8. Apr 9, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    I don't have points. There is a Pertronix unit in the distributor. The advance is working, you can see the timing mark move with the timing light on when you hit the accelerator.
    I think the timing chain is ok, the timing mark is stable and I can't hear any chain slap.
    I haven't pulled a valve cover to look at the valves but I can today.
    I'll check the linkage this morning.
     
  9. Apr 9, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Sep 21, 2002
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    Does the engine run good and sound good? No missing or accelerator stumble? How far did you drive it?
     
  10. Apr 9, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    It seems to idle fine, I don't know that it sounds really good. I drove it about 12 miles. Mix of city and highway. It can't maintain any speed up any sort of grade, it backfired a couple times while on the highway. It has no power below 2000 rpm's, you have to really gun it to start at a light.
     
  11. Apr 9, 2016
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Exhaust restriction was mentioned, definitely verify that it's not. It sure sounds like the timing could be retarded.....that will make it run ok but have no power. Another thing is make sure you don't have a brake dragging.
     
  12. Apr 9, 2016
    Alan F

    Alan F Sponsor

    SE TX
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    There is one other thing I've seen cause this type of problem which is a non-op power valve in the carb. Different mfgs do different things (vacuum operated valves to mechanical rods) to accomplish enriching the off idle circuits. If it doesn't get rich then it will be way down on power.
     
  13. Apr 9, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    Ok. I just let it warm up for 10 min. I was reading some other threads last night. The passenger side exhaust is blowing cold air out the pipe. That means the distributor is 180 degrees out correct? Do I pull the whole distributor, all wires connected and just rotate it 180 degrees? What is the exact procedure?
     
  14. Apr 9, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    Update: I pulled the valve cover, ensured I had found Top Dead Center on the compression stroke, turned the crank by hand to 5 degrees, stabbed in the distributor, pointed the rotor at #1 on the cap, ran the plug wires one at a time, hooked everything back up and she fired immediately and seems to be running MUCH better, I can't road test it because it's got a valve cover off but I was able to verify I have the same temperature exhaust coming out of both exhaust pipes.

    One lingering issue: When revving it in the driveway, it seemed to backfire out of the carb a couple times, is it possible the distributor is still one tooth off? Also, the timing light seems to be at about 20* and I'm not sure what that's all about?
     
  15. Apr 9, 2016
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

    Hills of NH
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    Did the light show the advance increasing as you revved it? If not, you may want to check that the centrifugal and/or vacuum advance mechanisms are operating.
     
  16. Apr 9, 2016
    Willys43

    Willys43 Member

    Kansa City
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    Feb 7, 2016
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    Orange, I had a similar problem with my Fireball. Passenger side of engine blowing cold air, lack of power, backfiring, Kinda ran in a limp home mode. The final resolution, carburetor had a thin film of dried crap in the bottom of fuel bowl. A flake had come loose and had blocked a passage in the carburetor. Mine started hard, it would idle ok on 3 cylinders, but was totally gutless. If your exhaust goes cold again take a spray bottle with gasoline in it and spray it into the Venturi on the passenger side, if it perks up, your carb has a blocked fuel passage. Napa got me a kit and that fixed my problem.
     
  17. Apr 12, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    Update: The distributor was off 1 tooth. I got it re-stabbed in on the right tooth, set the timing to 10* (I live in Salt Lake City, my house is about 4800' about sea level), it fires right up, idles smoothly, pulls smoothly in all 3 gears to 5000 rpm and can keep up with city and highway traffic. I pulled the valve cover to find TDC and was also able to verify the lifters are operating properly and getting oil.
     
  18. Apr 12, 2016
    tarry99

    tarry99 Member

    Northern California
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    Glad to hear you figured it out.....................How did it get so far off?
     
  19. Apr 12, 2016
    OrangeCJ5

    OrangeCJ5 Sponsor

    Taylorsville, UT
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    I think back when I installed the Pertronix I put it back in 180 out, I never road tested it until now so it seemed to be running ok.
     
    bolingball123 likes this.
  20. Apr 12, 2016
    Beach66Bum

    Beach66Bum 1966 Tuxedo Park Mark IV 2024 Sponsor

    Big Island on...
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    Awesome!(y)
     
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