Brake Conversions

Lol... I was at the pick n pull in Parkland on sunday looking for parts to replace the rear fuel filler hose on my Ford that was forcibly removed by a blown tire in July. Love the half price weekends! $20 and all was done but man are they busy those days!

 

Far as I know, drum systems don't use residual valves. Not saying the jeep one doesn't have one

 

Ummmm, which dimension? I already cut the mud collectors off.....

 

Yeah, I'll grab that for you later tonight. I just got done painting them, and I'm not touching them for a few hours.

 

14" OD, with a six bolt mounting circle, on 4" cross centers.

 

The light duty 3/4 ton units can work, the heavy duty 3/4 ton units are actually a larger diameter and moves the caliper outwards. They can be used, but will not have full pad contact to the rotor.

 

You should be fine. Like I said, the "Light Duty" 3/4 Tons used the same axles as the 1/2 tons.

 

The only ones I'm aware of that don't are when the vehicle has cup expanders and a spring in the wheel cylinders to hold tension between the cups and bore of the wheel cylinder. Otherwise there is typically a 10 psi residual pressure valve somewhere in the system. Frequently behind the line sealing seat in the master cylinder itself. It's very important on a frame mounted master cylinder to use a 10 psi unit on drum brakes and 2 psi unit in disc brakes with low mounted mc. Otherwise the fluid tends to drain back to the mc reservoir.

 

Yeah, that econoline cylinder was floor mounted, with discs in the front from the factory, it's the same one that's been in my '41 Pickup for years, with Mustang II front discs and 11" drums in the back. Pusher Pedal style, just like my CJ =]

 

for front discs you first need to remove the stock 10 lb. residual pressure valve. It's behind the brass tube seat. Carefully remove the tube seat then remove the valve and spring. Reinstall the tube seat carefully then install the 2lb. unit inline. If you look real close at the hole in the tube seat you can see the check valve.

 

Re removing the tap, I've got nothing for you but a little sympathy.

I would look for another cylinder. You can buy a new replacement from Crown, or maybe you can make a different application work. I would look for something with factory disk/drum brakes, and with the outlets on the passenger side. If I were still working at a parts store, I would look through the parts on the shelf, and look at any cores that come in. If you are friendly with the local parts store, you might ask if they can help you. They will be more likely to help if you ask when they aren't busy, ie not Saturday and the middle of the day.

A cylinder from a '72 CJ has the ports on the correct side, and is not very expensive. Cruising through the RockAuto catalog, a 1976 Bronco cylinder might work - it has the holes on the right side, and originally came with disk/drums. And is cheap, ca $20 at RockAuto http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=309115&cc=1105580&jnid=1524&jpid=1

 

I was able to remove the seat simply by running a sheet metal screw into it and pulling out with pliers.