Dana 27 - Warn Premiums, Refresh Bearings, seals and u-joints

Today I started into a Dana 27 I have which has a lunchbox in it.

I pulled the yoke off of it (the pinion shaft seems a little loose, but I didn't have play when the yoke was on it... need more inspect when I pull the seal).


Parts I'd wrangled up along the way:
Pinion seal
Warn premium hub 'service kit' (runs about $35 or so)
seal for axle cover
2" brake shoes, etc. for the front (and rears)
wheel cylinders

Pulled the hub off one side, and well, there was no 'puddin'... hmm, I thought closed knuckles needed pudding, after all, there's a filler for it. some mild rust but not a lot. Axle (drivers - long side) is in good shape.

the filler on the first hub had a chunk out of it, needs to be ground down a little.

First 'the parts list' I found I have to have after I was in there:

Timken LM510349 (bearing - qty 4)
Timken LM510310 (race - qty 4)
Timken 11590 (kingpin bearing - qty 4)
Timken 11520 (kingpin race - qty 4)

Going to replace the universals in the axles. I gotta look up the part number.

Big-ol-Rust-party on side number 2. So much so, I'll have to blast the rust off just to get to the caps on the universals. Grrr. didn't affect the splines at either end, just the universal.

Picts to follow...

SO let's get this thing going:

"the good side":











"The Bad" ...


I'll was pretty disgusted at this point I guess, and stopped photos. I'll take a few more tomorrow evening as I work this axle over.

 

Yipes...Houston...we've got a problem

 

You'll need to spend some time polishing the ball end of that axle housing to keep any knuckle pudding in there...

 

I did the same thing over the weekend. Not a bad project, just not allot of fun.

 

Parts ordered. Fwiw, rock auto was about $135 total, summit was about $215. Just saying, I like both parts haus, but wow, what a difference.

hoping I don't have to dig into the case and pull it for new bearings, then set it up again. Mostly as I'm in uncharted waters on the diff, but I guess it's not to worry, you just eat the elephant a bite at a time...

will inspect.

yeah, got to polish the balls ... On the axle ends (man, gotta be careful with that)... Will see what I come up with.

any suggestions on a decent case splitter if I have to go there? Anyone have built their own?

 

Shouldn't need a case spreader. Some careful work with two big screwdrivers will pop the carrier right out. Tap it back in with a plastic mallet, working both sides evenly. Not a bad idea to replace the bearing cap bolts with some new Grade 8s.

 

Alright, I think you've got me at hello... I have big screwdrivers. I have a plastic mallet.

I think it's best, now I can not have to worry about potentially sandblasting the rust and keeping the grit out of the case, parts and related bearings.

Next stop: more dis-assembly.

On other notes: I was looking at the u-joints on the axle shafts. Someone pulled the seals off of them, makes sense if you fill the balls with knuckle-juice... makes no sense (cents either) at all when things rust, dirt and water get in there and pollute the needle bearings... makes me wonder if someone prior got in a hurry and just forgot...

Dumb question (at work, feeling lazy, what ever): What's the u-joint number on these (1310? is there a particular variation?), and does anyone have a brand recommendation (Moog, Spicer, etc.) as well as model (Looks like Moog has several 'kinds' of quality)...

Thanks again!

 

Yes it makes sense seals were pulled-just went thru this

http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?112335-Dana-25-spicer-u-joint-where-to-get-one

even if you had sealed ujoint you would still need the lube in there to lube steering ball and the king pin bushings. As was discussed on my thread I'm sure you would be fine leaving the seals as we'll but you would need to tear down to lube time to time-which if system is working isn't necessary. Also keeps the steering seals lubed to keep the water and snot out.

Anyway i I listed my napa numbers in that thread. Should be same ones for yours if I'm not mistaken.

 

Many Thanks! I recall reading your thread, so I'm off to re-read.

 

good details:
found here:

http://www.fme-cat.com/overlays/par...reasable Super Strength&lu=1969 JEEP CJ5&vin=

 

No problem-yeah I bet the first sight of that rust was a kidney punch. I winced when I saw no lube in mine and the pile of needle bearings sitting in the bottom of the knuckle. Thankfully no case damages--just bearing races ujoints etc.

 

Don't forget to replace your inner axle seals when everything is apart. Easy insurance.

 

Yooper John--dat wouldn't reference da U P would it

 

Dane,
Two things that might help you...
1) using a 4 1/2 right angle grinder with an 80 grit flap disc on it to polish the ball end of the axle housing. This will remove enough metal to buff out the scratches and gouges, so go easy. Make diagonal passes across the ball end and then reverse the pattern to avoid flat spotting the ball end. WEAR GOOD EYE PROTECTION!!

2) To remove the differential from the axle housing, first mark the caps so you can replace then in the same position as you removed them. After you remove the bearing caps, put a socket on the pinion nut and lock the differential by putting a long wrench on one of the ring gear bolts. Turn the pinion so that the ring gear turns up toward the top of the housing, when the wrench hits the top of the housing and stops the ring from turning, a little more torque on the pinion nut will force the differential right out of the housing. When the differential walks out to the point where the pinion is out of engagement with the ring gear, you can easily pry it the rest of the way out.

Don

 

Excellent info all!

I am good friends with the 4 1/2" flap disks... and grinder wheels and cutting wheels...

As to the kidney punch, I keep reminding myself, I only wanted the 11" brakes when I bought the set, I only wanted the 11" brakes. The lockers and everything else were bonus.

Eye protection, skin protection, finger mashing protection...

Great tip on walking the dif out of position.

 

"" On other notes: I was looking at the u-joints on the axle shafts. Someone pulled the seals off of them, makes sense if you fill the balls with knuckle-juice... makes no sense (cents either) at all when things rust, dirt and water get in there and pollute the needle bearings... makes me wonder if someone prior got in a hurry and just forgot...
""""

Dane

Ok i always wondered what these should have in them instead of axle grease. Can you enlighten me on what spec / where to get this Knuckle Juice ??? Then i might not have puddles by my front tires .

Thanks
Mike

 

Tomahawk,
That would be the UP. Negaunee, to be specific.

 

Take a look at this one...
http://www.earlycj5.net/forums/showthread.php?31468-Knuckle-Puddin

 

Thanks sounds like a trip to the John Deere store and get some "corn head grease"

 

This is what I am going to run. It looks like it should work good.