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2 Jet Runs Better With Choke On Plus HEI Issue

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by Focker, Feb 18, 2015.

  1. Feb 22, 2015
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Get a tube (as said) Heat Sink Compound from Rad-Shak and totally cover the bottom of the module fairly thick. After tightening it down then remove excess that has squeezed out from under the module. The HEI pulls some amps so be sure that the ignition feed wire does not have a bunch of splices in it. I like to use a 10ga wire from ign sw directly to the HEI.
     
  2. Feb 22, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Thanks everyone, we have a Baxters Auto Parts in town that has been able to get me everything I've needed. Napa is closed today but Baxters has one in stock for $40. I already have the paste, my dad's a computer nut and has all kinds of it laying around. I used it on the current module when I went through the HEI cleaning it up.
     
  3. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Will a engine try to turn over (crank) with a bad ignition module?

    - I put the new ignition module in, it fired right up.
    - I drove it to the hardware store on a work errand and the choke spring came off, I flooded the engine until figured things out.
    - I fixed the spring and let the Jeep sit for 30 minutes and it fired right up.
    - I went home and took an extra turn to make sure everything had evaporated out. It died after the light turned green.
    - I pushed it to the driveway of the closest house (with some good samaritans), it wouldn't start.
    - Fortunately I was uphill from my house and pushed it about a block and then coasted downhill until I got home.
    - It cranks but won't start???
     
  4. Feb 24, 2015
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Wouldn't turn over, or turned over but wouldn't catch?

    H.
     
  5. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    It cranks like it wants to start.

    I should have asked the question better...
    If the new module is dead, would anything happen when trying to start the engine?
     
  6. Feb 24, 2015
    Howard Eisenhauer

    Howard Eisenhauer Administrator Staff Member

    Tantallon, Nova...
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    Stupid question :D- are you out of gas?

    Assuming you're not, stick an old spark plug in one of the plug wires & see if you're getting spark while cranking.
     
  7. Feb 24, 2015
    47v6

    47v6 junk wrecker! 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Make sure the spark is HOT, like blue. not yellow. Is your coil new? Did you run an EXTRA ground wire from the metal distributor housing to a known good ground? I had a similar problem. I replaced the coil and module. I also put an extra ground on the housing as per Tarrys suggestion. Its worked for me.
     
  8. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Not a stupid question at all...That was my first thought so my wife rescued me with a gas can and jumper cables just in case I killed the battery. I added 3gls of gas so that should be enough to figure things out. I'm going to check the plugs now and maybe open the carb and check the float. The accelerator pump is working perfectly.
     
  9. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    The coil is not new.
    I did not add the extra ground...Never knew, but I will now. Where do I attach it?

    Edit - No spark!
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2015
  10. Feb 24, 2015
    47v6

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    Apparently the coil is different for odd fire. I attached a ground wire with the screw that holds down the capacitor on the inside of the distributor housing. I ran an 8-32 screw long and on the backside where it goes though the bottom I used an eye and a star washer and a nut. It should not be needed, but Tarry told me to do it, I did, and it works with the new module and coil. One or all of those things were the problem for me.
     
  11. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    I think I remeber reading that somewhere.

    I just pulled the coil...Baxters has a MSD coil and they described the wire colors being in the same spot as mine. I'm going to head downtown and check it out. So much for my good deal on a used HEI distributor. :shock:

    My coil.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Feb 24, 2015
    47v6

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  13. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    I've seen that, thank you.

    Red basically goes to the 12 volt supply? Mine was hooked up properly. I just bought a new coil, as I passed Napa on the way to Baxters, I thought I'd see if they had the coil. I'm glad I did...I saved $45 by not going with a MSD.

    Here's a pic of the new coil installed before I try starting it.
    Coil's red to my Jeep's red 12 volt supply.
    Coil's white to my Jeep's green tach wire.
    Coil's black ground to the coil hold down screw.
    Coils other ground from the hold down screw to center terminal of the distributor block.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. Feb 24, 2015
    47v6

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    Thats what the pic on the link looks like and thats how I set mine up. It worked. Red on the left and white on the right. If it was a yellow wire it would be the wrong coil and wrong polarity. At least that what the site says.

    put the extra ground on. It will take you 10 minutes and you can eliminate that issue. Bad grounds are 75% of any wiring problem on a vehicle.
     
  15. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    I'm using an extra distributor and a loooong screw for illustration purposes.

    Is this what you're describing? Connect a new additional ground from the distributor to a clean grounding point on the Jeep?
    [​IMG]
     
  16. Feb 24, 2015
    47v6

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    yes, thats the idea exactly. In theory it should NOT need that. I did it because Tarry told me to. Cant really have too many grounds.
     
    Desertdog48 likes this.
  17. Feb 24, 2015
    Focker

    Focker That's a terrible idea...What time? Staff Member

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    Well...

    I put in the new coil and while I was waiting for a response on the additional ground connection I thought I'd test for spark and bingo! I installed the additional ground (this thing is grounded very well). I tried starting the Jeep thinking I had everything figured out. And. No. Spark! :cry:

    Anyone want to buy a '71 CJ5...Ran when parked!

    The new coil didn't come with one of these...Should I get a new one?
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Feb 25, 2015
    47v6

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    Ok, then. Check to make sure you have 12volts going to the distributor. Get out your multimeter and test it..

    I tried to buy a new one of the carbon buttons when I put in my coil and the parts people didn't even know what it was at 3 different places. They only come with the cap apparently and no one has that in stock around here.

    You know it DID run, so something has changed to alter that. Figure out what has changed since it went from running to not running. Make sure your wires are intact. make sure you have 12 volts at the distributor.
     
  19. Feb 25, 2015
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    That external ground (the long screw shown) is fine but the distributor hold down clip is doing the same thing. What you may have going on here is a loss of ground from the coil to the distributor. The three wire harness coming from the distributor base that plugs into the distributor cap does three things. Red wire is power B+. The center wire is ground from the distributor to the coil. The third (other side wire) is the command or trigger signal to the coil. The trigger is also the signal wire for the TAC. Any one of these three wires (if broken) will cause a no spark condition.
     
  20. Feb 25, 2015
    AKCJ

    AKCJ Active Member

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    I had a similar problem one time and nearly got stranded in the woods while bear hunting.

    I eventually figured out that the main (6 wire?) connector on the engine wiring harness was not tight. I had pulled it apart for something else and failed to get it together all the way. On my rig this connector is along side the pass side valve cover.

    I suppose the problem could still be the module if the new one is defective. I always carry a known good spare on the trail.
     
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