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F134 stalling problem?

Discussion in 'Early CJ5 and CJ6 Tech' started by 1957Willys, May 11, 2014.

  1. Jun 15, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    It starts sputtering and hesitating when I shift into neutral when coming to a stop. And I can recover it by mashing the gas pedal alittle at a time. And it will restart with it warm or cold, The oil doesn't smell like gas nor does the exhaust smell rich. I have already set the timing with a timing light and noticed it ran worse than it did with the timing set with a vacuum gauge. The distributor is a NOS prestolite. Could it possibly be in the voltage regulator?
     
  2. Jun 15, 2014
    Walt Couch

    Walt Couch sidehill Cordele, Ga. 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Voltage regulator only keeps the battery charged. You said you could restart so your battery must be getting charge.
     
  3. Jun 15, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    That is true it might be something in the carburetor I might have over looked something.
     
  4. Jun 15, 2014
    Southtowns27

    Southtowns27 Custom Title

    The Backhills of...
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    Sounds more like carb. When you mash the gas, the accelerator pump injects a bunch of fuel and it stays running. Sounds like the idle circuit of the carb may be partially clogged, or you have a vacuum leak someplace. Might be worth your time to disassemble the carb and make sure all the passages are clear (blow air through everything). You can also check for vacuum leaks by spraying carb cleaner around the base of the carb, throttle shaft, intake gaskets, etc, with the engine running. If it speeds up, you found a leak. It doesn't make sense that the engine would run worse being timed to spec. Can you define "worse"? I'm wondering if you have more than one issue going on..

    Edit: Does the stalling happen with the engine cold or only after you've been driving for awhile? For it to restart, can you just hit the button and have it light off, or do you have to turn the key to the off position, then back on for it to start?
     
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2014
  5. Jun 15, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    That's what I am starting to think again but I can raise the throttle and go back to idle and it will not stall.
     
  6. Jul 30, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    Well I finally figured it out. The idle was set to low so the engine could not handle the extra fuel when going back to idle when slowing down.
     
  7. Jul 30, 2014
    1960willyscj5

    1960willyscj5 Well-Known Member

    Mesa, Arizona
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    That was going to be my suggestion.

    My '60 F-134 doesn't like to idle at 6 or 7 or 8 hundred rpm. Set it to 1k rpm give or take 50 and no problems.

    When mine was stalling out like that it turned out to be the fuel pump. Replaced it with an electric one from Mr Gasket. 2 - 4 lb of fuel pressure.
     
  8. Oct 5, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    What would cause it to not be able to idle at a lower rpm? My 51 Pontiac idles at 670 rpms and it's really quiet. What would I have to do in order to achieve a good low idle?
     
  9. Oct 5, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    My '51 Pontiac had a straight-8... Smooth as silk, but no comparison with a Jeep F-head. Two different vehicles with very different functions.


    That said, rough idle could be a slew of things that come with age and miles. Loose throttle-plate shaft bores, vacuum leaks, valve guides worn, bad intake gasket/warped carb flanges, crud in the carb passages, float level, float needle valve, accelerator pump leaking, rusty/worn distributor advance mechanism, play in the distributor shaft causing dwell and timing variations, you name it. It all adds up.

    If it really bugs you, I would start with a careful and systematic standard tune-up to OEM specs, then go from there one item at a time. Vacuum and compression tests might give some helpful indications.

    Jeep FSM specifically says to not set the idle below 600rpm.
     
    Last edited: Oct 5, 2014
  10. Oct 5, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    I was just wondering I have the idle set to alittle above 900. And it is time for a set of plug wires. I was out driving it today and when I got back I noticed it was skipping alittle as soon as I toughed the number two spark plug wire boot I got shocked through the boot. So now I'm going to have to find a good set of plug wires since these only lasted there years.
     
  11. Oct 5, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Take a look while it is running, in darkness - you may see the HT sparks leaking various places. You could even try spritzing some water on the wires and distributor.
     
  12. Oct 5, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    What is a good brand of spark plug wires for a F134? The ones that are currently on it came from kaiserwillys
     
  13. Oct 6, 2014
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot Member

    Asheboro, NC
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    It's not so much the brand of manufacture but the composition of the wire. Graphite core won't last as long as a real copper core. I concur with the OEM tune up procedures and the compression, vacuum, dwell and timing checks. You can search for a vacuum leak by spraying quick bursts of starting fluid at every conceivable air entry point while at a warm best idle. Changes in RPM will show you the leaks. Pay special attention to the throttle shaft at its entry and exit.
     
  14. Oct 6, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Ditto on solid wire cores.
     
  15. Oct 6, 2014
    1957Willys

    1957Willys Member

    Birmingham, Alabama
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    Well the plot thickens I was out working on the jeep this afternoon. I found when the number one cylinder is on top dead center the rotor button isn't at the 5'o clock position but instead it's almost on 7'o clock. I don't know how I didn't see this before but I have a good feeling the oil pump has been out before for this to happen so I am going to reclock the oil pump so the rotor button is back in the 5'o clock position.....
     
  16. Oct 7, 2014
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

    Apopka, Fl
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    Do you have the Carter YF carb? If they aren't in brand new like condition they will mess with you big time. The throttle shaft being loose or moving roughly at all can give you fits with idle adjustment. Throttle return spring position can cause issues with idle also. 900 rpm is really high for idle.
     
  17. Oct 7, 2014
    Brian P

    Brian P Member

    Clarkdale Arizona
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    I agree with Glen on the Carter YF, to date every stalling problem I have had ( assuming everything else is good ) could be traced to a partially plugged idle / low speed jet or a leaking pump diaphragm.
     
  18. Oct 7, 2014
    PeteL

    PeteL If it wasn't for physics, and law enforcement... 2024 Sponsor 2023 Sponsor 2022 Sponsor

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    Just for a second view, I never have had any issues with YFs that weren't a matter of just keeping it in good repair, correct adjustment, and clean. A really high-mile 'worn out' carb might be different.

    Have you tied a dose of Seafoam? Water in the float bowl can be troublesome.
     
  19. Oct 7, 2014
    scoutpilot

    scoutpilot Member

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    You may have a blockage in the fuel pick up in the tank. Have you considered that? Also, if the pump you bought from Walck's is brand new, it is likely a clone and likely is not completely rebuildable. If the valves are pressed in you can only replace the diaphragm. If a valve jams on you, your toast.
     
  20. Oct 7, 2014
    Glenn

    Glenn Kinda grumpy old man Staff Member

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    I love the YF, don't get me wrong. ;) They just have to be in excellent (i.e. like new) shape to not cause issues.
     
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